Liminal Spaces

Last July, I wrote about how well Japan does third places.

Liminal spaces are another arena where Japan excels.

In the most basic terms, liminal spaces are places of transition between where you were and where you’re going. They include airports, airplanes, train stations, trains, waiting rooms, hotels, hotel lobbies, etc. These places don’t always garner a lot of thought or interest.

• You arrive early at the airport and endure the wait until you can board the plane, only to endure the flight to your destination.

• You book a passable hotel in a good location, reasoning that you won’t be at the hotel much, so who cares how good it is, so long as it has a bed (not always a bad plan).

• You board the train, find your seat, throw on your headphones, and prepare to be uncomfortable until you arrive at your intended destination.

These scenarios play out every day all over the world — but in Japan, most everything is thoughtfully considered and designed to be elevated. This makes your liminal space its own special experience rather than a means to an end.

Japanese airlines, for instance, take liminal spaces to another level. If you’re going to be stuck in a plane for 12 hours, it’s tough to beat a Japanese airline. For example, the oshibori (hot towel) handed to you on the plane just before your meal lifts your spirits and makes you feel just a little special. In addition, the food will be better, the service will be better, and the overall experience will be a great start to your Japanese adventure.

Japanese airports (another liminal space) are outstanding as well. The quantity and quality of the restaurants and the shops are unbelievable.

Most Japanese hotels (including inexpensive business hotels) have a control panel next to the headboard of your bed with an outlet for your electronics, switches for lights, AC, and sometimes a radio. It’s a small convenience, but a thoughtful one. The bathroom mirror is often coated with anti-fog material so you can comfortably use it after you get out of the shower and the room is full of steam. It’s delightful. They also often have vending machines on designated floors with sodas, beer, and snacks, so you don’t even have to go to the konbini. These are only small things that make a difference.

If you stay at a higher-end hotel in Japan you will be amazed by the quality of care they use to make their guests feel special. You’ve probably heard of the Japanese practice of omotenashi. At fancy hotels this will be taken to a level you’re unlikely to experience anywhere else in the world.

Another liminal space Japan excels at is trains. People get excited about trains, especially the hyper-fast Shinkansen. And for good reason. A Shinkansen doesn’t just get you from city to city smoothly, efficiently, and quietly. It’s an experience. Getting a delicious ekiben (train station bento) and a beer or soda and eating on the Shinkansen is the most fun way to pretend you’re a salaryman.

Even local trains offer an amazing experience. Sometimes, I like to choose a train line I haven’t been on and take it for a while, observe the areas it goes through, note interesting stations, people watch, listen to the unique train jingles at every stop, and then get off somewhere new and explore. It’s an incredible way to discover new favorite restaurants, shops, and places to walk.

Train stations are their own exceptional liminal space in Japan. They can be so vast (Shinjuku Station and Tokyo Station, for example) that you could basically live in them. Hundreds of shops, restaurants, bookstores, etc., will keep you endlessly entertained.

An izakaya is a third place and a liminal space (the best kind, in my opinion), acting as a transition from work to home. Many people swing by their favorite local spot to chat with other regulars, grab a drink and a small snack, and wind down before heading home for the night.

Pay attention to the liminal spaces in Japan, and you will find lots of wonderful details and memorable experiences.

Chirashizushi

Chirashizushi is sushi rice topped with raw fish and other toppings. It is not that common in the USA, but in Japan, it’s a way to get a great meal at a nice price. You can choose a single topping or a mix of several. At some sushi shops, the chef will choose for you (omakase-style). 

Chirashizushi doesn’t require the same level of skill to prepare as nigiri, and although it is served at fancy sushi restaurants, there are shops that specialize exclusively in chirashizushi. They tend to be fairly casual spots, and they’re awesome because chirashizushi is an inexpensive and filling way to eat sushi. 

It’s also a fun way to get a great deal at a fancier sushi restaurant. Go to a more exclusive sushi restaurant and order chirashizushi for lunch, and you will eat at a fraction of the cost that ordering nigiri sushi for dinner would run you.

Chirashizushi is also my go-to when I feel like making sushi at home. One doesn’t need to have incredible knife skills, the gear to make rolls, or the technique required to make solid nigiri. 

I think anyone can manage a good bowl of chirashizushi at home. Just buy the seafood you want, make some sushi rice in the rice cooker, throw the rice in a bowl, cut the fish into bite-size pieces, and toss them on top. Then add pickled ginger, wasabi, nori, and/or soy sauce to your liking and dig in. Even if it doesn’t look fancy, it can taste fancy.

Here’s a good and easy recipe for making chirashizushi at home

Omiyage

Omiyage is translated in English as “souvenir”. Unlike typical Western souvenirs that travelers buy for themselves as mementos of their holidays, omiyage are gifts for family, friends, neighbors, and work or school colleagues.

By bringing back something from the area you visited, you are sharing the experience of that place with the people who weren’t able to go.

Omiyage also differs from Western souvenirs in that it is culturally expected to bring omiyage for family, friends, neighbors, classmates, and co-workers. Failing to bring omiyage can be considered thoughtless or impolite.

The most popular omiyage are regional items from the place you visited.

We all know the almighty algorithm is flattening the world at an alarming rate, with general tastes unifying and everything being available everywhere.

You will be pleased to know that Japan holds a strong reverence for regional, local specialties, and all 47 of Japan’s prefectures have signature products. From the umeboshi in Wakayama to the Tokyo Banana of Tokyo to the kuri (chestnut) daifuku of Nagano, every region has items that highlight local foods or traditional crafts.

I recommend bringing omiyage from your home country, more specifically, your city.

Take easily packable items (and maybe a few more substantial items) to give as gifts for people you connect with or people who go out of their way to help you.

This small practice will greatly improve how you are received and help with becoming a temporary regular at places you visit. Candy/chocolates of where you’re from (if they are unique), local alcohol (which is likely to be much more expensive and possibly hard to get in Japan), and Trader Joe’s bags are incredibly popular in Japan (skip the keychains).

Last week’s most clicked link was Yakitori (my favorite food)

The 2nd most clicked link was for The God of Ramen film

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