Omotenashi

Omotenashi is one of the reasons visiting Japan is such an incredible experience. It is usually translated as Japanese hospitality, but omotenashi goes far deeper than simply showing generous hospitality to someone.

Omotenashi is something all Japanese people have been raised with. It is a cultural aspect of being Japanese and representing Japan positively in your words and actions to anyone who is visiting. This is something Japanese people take seriously and have elevated to an art form. Whether they work in the service industry or not, Japanese people want you to have an amazing time visiting their country.

It is evident in how deep the server bows at Ichiran after delivering your delicious bowl of ramen; it is apparent in the care the bartenders take in preparing, presenting, and serving your cocktail, and it’s demonstrated in how expertly shop workers wrap your purchase like a present. These are just a few of the ways that omotenashi is on display in an everyday sort of way by people in the service industry.

Beyond that, there are spontaneous examples of omotenashi shown by regular people who simply want to show you something they think is cool about their country.

Some personal examples:

An older Japanese gentleman who didn’t speak much English was curious to find a foreigner in his local sake bar (I was the only foreigner in there), so he bought me some sake and then took me to a different secret sake bar, and generously bought all drinks for the remainder of the night.

A woman saw me in a park and invited me to have matcha tea and wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets) with her at a local cafe, then drove me around to show me some other beautiful parks in the area.

Then there was a regular at my favorite izakaya, who would always pop over to the local konbini and bring several of us mini-Hagen Dazs at the end of the night. He also gave me a Rolling Stones CD and took me and the two owners of the izakaya on an adventure to another town to eat a rare type of fish at an expensive restaurant.

Finally, I sublet an apartment in Shimokitazawa for less than the actual rent from a kind Japanese guy who I’d only met twice at a local bar. 

Note: As an American (with very different cultural norms), I feel I should mention that none of the interactions described above were with people who had ulterior motives. They were simply friendly people who wanted to show their hospitality.

I have more personal examples of these things, but I will stop here because otherwise, this article will be far too long. And some of these acts of generosity may start to sound unbelievable. 

Regarding travel, the practice of omotenashi will almost certainly ensure you have an amazing time. If you haven’t already, I hope you can experience the beauty of this cultural tradition soon.

Japanese Ice Cream

There are fancy boutique ice cream shops in every town in America serving all kinds of amazing, and sometimes bizarre ice cream concoctions, but Japan has been making wild flavors of ice cream and soft serve (sofuto kurimu as they call it) forever. 

The most traditional flavors in the US are chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry. In Japan, the top three traditional flavors are green matcha tea, ube (purple sweet potato), and sweet red bean. 

My favorite Japanese ice cream/soft serve is black sesame. It’s a popular flavor and it’s life-changing. Shake Shack in Japan has black sesame milkshakes! I want one right now.

In addition to the fun flavors of ice cream and soft serve, Japan excels at novelty ice cream. The kinds of things the ice cream truck would bring in America (ice cream sandwiches, creamsicles, premade cones with chocolate and peanuts on top). But in Japan, you’ll go to a konbini (convenience store) or a supermarket to find these. 

Some ice cream novelties I recommend: 

Pino-6 chocolate-covered bonbons. Usually vanilla ice cream, but they also have other flavors. I like to let these melt just a bit before I eat them. It brings out more flavor. And yes, I do grab one of these basically every single day on my way back home from a night out. —Don’t think you can share one of these. The six pieces are just right for one person. Get one pack per person or suffer the consequences.

Yukimi Daifuku - mochi-covered vanilla ice cream. Just the perfect balance of chewy mochi with rich ice cream. These are super popular among my Japanese friends.

Choco Monaka Jumbo - a vanilla ice-cream sandwich with a sheet of chocolate in the middle. The outer sandwich shell is different from American-style ice-cream sandwiches. It’s made with monaka wafers and is light and crispy. Sometimes nothing but an ice-cream sandwich will do and this one is fantastic. 

Shotengai

Local Japanese shopping streets (Shotengai) are a great way to experience everyday Japanese life. Every shotengai has its own vibe, but things they have in common are food (restaurants, bars, grocery stores), shopping, and events. 

You’ll find major international chains (McDonald’s, Wendy’s, Krispy Kreme, Yoshinoya), Japanese chains (CoCo, Ichibanya, Sukiya, Torikizoku, Donki Hotei, etc.), local restaurants, local shops, jazz bars, boutiques of all kinds, pet stores, and almost anything else you can imagine.

Many shotengai are covered, making them excellent places to visit when it’s rainy.

Prices at shotengai tend to be lower than the surrounding malls. On my last visit to Tokyo, I needed an extra suitcase to hold all the souvenirs I acquired (Don’t laugh. This will likely happen to you.). I scoured the big stores and malls where I was staying in Tokyo (Kichijoji). The least expensive suitcase was $80. It wasn’t large or fancy. I’m glad I tried the local shotengai in Kichijoji (Sunroad) because I found a slightly larger suitcase for only $40.

Aside from finding deals, you will enjoy shopping in smaller local stores and the fun interactions with the owner-operators of many of these stores.

Here are some shotengai in various cities.

Tokyo

Nakano Sun Mall - You may be familiar with Nakano Broadway, the 5-story mall filled with all manner of collectibles and niche goods often referred to as Tokyo’s otaku mall. Nakano Sun Mall is not that. This covered shopping arcade runs from the North Exit of Nakano Station to the entrance of the Nakano Broadway Mall (which looks like a mall, not a covered shopping street). Yes, confusing. I didn’t name them.

What’s even better than the main covered area of the Nakano Sun Mall, are the streets that branch off the main avenue. These small side streets feature fantastic local restaurants, bars, and izakaya. It’s an excellent area to hang out at night and experience a local version of Tokyo.

Amerika Yokocho - Located in Ueno, Ameyoko started as a black market after the war. Now it’s where people look for bargains on clothing, food, and miscellaneous goods - not to mention the numerous restaurants. I wrote more about it here.

Togoshi Ginza - This is the longest shotengai in Tokyo and boasts a bajillion stores (around 400 actually). Go here if you want to be completely overwhelmed. I kid, I joke. Actually, this street is a lot. Be prepared. If you don’t like too much stimulus, this may not be the place for you. Also, don’t eat before you visit, as there are many places to eat and drink here and you’ll want to sample them.

Togoshi Ginza Official Webpage with lists of shops and maps

Yanaka Ginza - Known for its Edo period vibes. Go here if you want to feel like you’re stepping back in time. Also, there are cat-themed things everywhere, which I approve of.

Yanaka Ginza Website with great photographs and artwork and cute cats

Sunroad Kichijoji - Why won’t he stop talking about Kichijoji?/Why can’t I stop talking about Kichijoji? Kichijoji rocks. I considered not telling anyone about Kichijoji so I could have it to myself, but alas, I convinced myself it was ok to let people know about it. Most travelers don’t make it out here anyway.

Sunroad Kichijoji Official Webpage

Check out the food at DRA Nine

Kyoto

Shinkyogoku - Shinkyogoku attracts a lot of tourists, so many of the shops cater to them. Shinkyogoku has numerous vintage clothing stores (my girlfriend and her teenage daughter loved it and scored many finds here), eateries, and goods featuring Japanese motifs. If you need a vans shirt with katakana script on it, go here. Shinkyogoku draws a younger demographic.

Official Shinkyogoku Website with shop and restaurant lists

Teramachi - Similar to Shinkyogoku regarding the number of travelers, Teramachi leans slightly older and more traditional. Tea shops, clothing stores (also has vintage clothing), bookstores, and even some art galleries. My girlfriend and her daughter also found vintage clothes here, so you really can’t go wrong in either of these two spots.

Nishiki Market - Nishiki market is called “Kyoto’s pantry.” Locals go here to pick up fresh fish and seafood, pickled vegetables (All kinds. Super good.), Japanese sweets (wagashi), tea, snacks, fresh veggies, fresh tofu, and whatever else you want. There are also small restaurants in between the shops. It’s fun to stroll through Nishiki Market tasting your way through as you go (many of the stores offer samples to taste before you buy) and grab some bites of whatever catches your eye to take to your hotel for later. Nishiki Market runs perpendicular to Shinkyogoku and Teramachi and it connects them. If you feel ambitious, you can check out all three in one visit.

If you want to learn more, like what shops and restaurants are there, here’s the official website for Nishiki Market.

Sanjo-kai - Unlike Shinkyogoku and Teramachi, Sanjo-kai caters primarily to locals. The vibe is quite different. Some shops have been around for 100 years. Visit Sanjo-kai and escape the crowds of travelers. With so many unique family-owned stores, you never know what cool things you’ll find here. Experience a slower pace and an older version of Kyoto at Sanjo-kai.

Osaka

Dotonbori - You probably already know about Dotonbori as it’s one of the most famous attractions in Osaka. Regardless, this is a fun place to go. It has a different energy at night, so I suggest going during the day to check out the shops before they close (Some close as early as 6 pm) and then going back to your hotel and relaxing before going back and eating and drinking your way up and down this area. Make sure you get some okonomiyaki. Osaka is famous for it.

Nagoya

Osu - Osu shopping street and the surrounding area is huge. You can easily spend a whole day here. Osu has eateries, anime/manga shops, electronics stores, jewelry dealers, clothing, sundries, cafes, kimonos, guitar shops, and anything else you can name.

It is also known for being a great place to buy second-hand goods. A huge chain store, Komehyo, has several branches here. Each one features different things. Kimonos in one store. Guitars, basses, saxophones, effects pedals, drums, and all other musical items in another store. Luxury goods like watches and name-brand handbags are in a third store. There are great finds in these shops.

Kobe

Sannomiya Center Gai and Motomachi - It’s no secret. I love Kobe. This city is so underrated. Situated between mountains and the bay, Kobe has beautiful views and a cozy feeling. And their shotengai are outstanding. Everything feels just right here. Perfectly laid out, just the right size, with a great mix of international and Japanese shops, and heaps of food. I paired these two streets together because this newsletter needs to end and I’m running out of steam. Trust me, they are both fantastic.