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Kanda • Eigo Arerugi • Pastries
Japan or Die - Issue #56
Kanda

Kanda/Jimbocho area
Kanda is an excellent location to stay in when visiting Tokyo. It offers convenient access to numerous more famous areas while being a chill, less expensive neighborhood filled with many reasonably priced restaurants frequented by locals.
Centrally located in the heart of Tokyo, Kanda is served by multiple train lines: the famous Yamanote Line, my beloved Chuo Line (Rapid), the excellent Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, and the Keihin-Tohoku Line which runs from Saitama to Yokohama via many useful stops in Tokyo neighborhoods.
If you are keen on walking (one of my favorite activities) Kanda is within comfortable walking distance of Jimbocho (Book Town. around 10-15 min.), Akihabara (Electric Town. about 10-15 min.), Ochanomizu (Guitar Town. 15-20 min.), and the Imperial Palace/Park (approx. 20-25 min.)
With tons of great restaurants and izakayas near the station and extending out on several streets from the station, Kanda holds its own in terms of food.
A few famous eateries include Matsuya (a Soba spot that’s been in business since 1884), 100-Hours Curry, and Botan (known for its 120-year-old chicken sukiyaki recipe).
Kanda is not known as a tourist destination. Its prime location places you within easy reach of most parts of the city, making visiting various areas quite convenient. Also, when you decide to stay in Kanda, you will have more opportunities for casual conversations with locals at small izakayas because they may be curious as to why you are there as opposed to Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ginza, or other more famous areas.
Eigo Arerugi
Eigo arerugi (英語アレルギー) is a Japanese term that translates to “English allergy.” The first time I heard it, was talking with some locals at an izakaya in Yokohama. It was said in such a light-hearted way that I thought the person was joking and teasing their friend who did not speak much English.
It turns out this is a common expression in Japanese for someone who has anxiety or even an aversion to learning or speaking English. It is also used humorously.
English is taught systematically in Japanese schools, with the greatest focus placed on grammar and reading comprehension at the expense of practical conversation skills. This is why you can often write something down in English and have a Japanese person understand and respond (either in basic English or Japanese) even after you previously asked the question verbally, resulting in no response or the person not understanding you.
Thinking about my high school French class taught via the immersion method, I know I would have no chance of having a conversation with anyone in French, and if I had to help French tourists do things in their language, it would be quite stressful. So I can commiserate with people who are eigo arerugi. I’m probably furansugo arerugi (French allergic).
Another reason Japanese people can be reluctant to speak English is their fear of making mistakes. I think it is cultural to seek perfection.
I’ve found that many Japanese people who initially say they don’t speak English end up speaking quite decent English once they have a drink or two. This is how a lot of interactions start in the small izakayas I’m fond of: me speaking my basic Japanese, them telling me how great it is (it’s not great, it’s basic. See Nihongo Jouzu.), them speaking their limited English which invariably is much better than my basic Japanese and sometimes ends up being very good English, and us having a grand time communicating in a wonderful mishmash of English and Japanese. They were just holding back due to shyness and/or thinking they had to speak perfectly.
These are just my experiences. Learning even the smallest amount of Japanese is the best “travel hack” you can do before coming to Japan. It shows respect and commitment and makes it easier for people to feel comfortable talking to you in their sometimes limited English. The more Japanese I learn, the better and more interesting my adventures in Japan become.
Pastries

Photo by Mink Mingle on Unsplash
At a party recently, some friends were discussing the popularity of keiki baikingu (Cake Viking), all-you-can-eat cake restaurants, in Japan. An American friend asked a Japanese friend about the quality of cake, pastries, and baked goods in Japan. The Japanese friend responded, “They’re better than in France”.
You may be shocked to learn that Japan excels at pastries, cakes, and other baked goods.
This year, Japan won the Pastry World Cup, again, defending their title and defeating home favorites France.
A fun fictional show about Japanese chefs and their passion for French cuisine is La Grande Maison Tokyo. There are 2 seasons, filled with beautiful food, a bit of humor, lots of cooking words, and enough drama to make it interesting.
Make sure you don’t miss the pastries in Japan.
Last week’s most clicked link was This great recipe for Japanese potato salad.