Jazz Kissa/Bars

Bars, known as “Kissa”, originated in post-war Japan as a place to listen to jazz. At the time, buying records was prohibitively expensive, so getting to hear curated new music on high-quality audio gear was a big hit. Famed author Haruki Murakami owned a Jazz Kissa in Kokobunji (Peter Cat) before he became a writer.

Since being embraced by younger generations, Jazz Kissa have now evolved into “listening bars” where all kinds of music is curated into amazing playlists. These idiosyncratic, creative bars vary greatly in appearance and mood. Some copy the old-style Showa-era vibes (including mixing in Showa-era songs with more current offerings and playing the records on vintage 50’s/60’s sound systems), and others look like someone’s fever dream. 

Some places have signs telling you the theme for upcoming dates. A Kichijoji bar featured the complete Bob Dylan catalog over several days when I was last there. They are still referred to as Jazz Kissa even if they primarily focus on rock n’ roll or another form of music.

The world of Jazz Kissa bars is a deep rabbit hole, and well worth exploring. These places are dripping with style and ambiance from bygone eras. Check out some incredible photos here: List of 15 Tokyo Jazz Bars founded in the 1960s and 1970s that are still going* (except for one that closed a few years ago).

For those who don’t want to wait to go to Japan to experience something like this, here’s a guide to audiophile listening bars worldwide*.

You may also enjoy this gorgeous coffee-table book: Tokyo Jazz Joints

*Curated by the owners of In Sheep’s Clothing. A Downtown Los Angeles listening bar inspired by Japanese Bars.

Nihongo Jouzu

It’s helpful to learn even the smallest amount of Japanese before you go to Japan as many Japanese people don’t speak much English. Japanese people know their language is challenging (muzukashi) to learn, and they will generally be appreciative that you’ve taken the time to even learn a small amount.

You will most likely get “jouzu’d”. Jouzu means good/well in Japanese, and sometimes, if you even say one word like sumimassen (excuse me) in Japanese with even a poor pronunciation, the person you’re speaking with may say “Nihongo jouzu” / “Your Japanese is good” or “Nihongo jouzu desu (ne)”. / ”Your Japanese is good (isn’t it)”.

This has become a bit of a joke in the Japanese language learning community as it’s clearly not true. Your Japanese is probably bad to mediocre, but they just want to encourage you and are applauding the effort. Ironically, the better your Japanese gets, the less likely you are to get jouzu’d (not a real verb. But a fun expression nonetheless). When your Japanese is halfway decent people will just be like “oh you speak some Japanese. Great. I don’t have to tell you you’re good”.

BTW, the correct response to being told Nihongo jouzu desu, is not to say “thanks.” You should actually say something like: “no, no, no my Japanese is bad” or “no, no, no” or “no, no, not yet.” Let them know that you know you’ve got more to learn. Either way, they will be pleased with your effort.

Letter from a Reader

Recently, a reader wrote me an update from his most recent trip to Japan, highlighting places he and his brother learned about from the Japan or Die newsletter as well as places they discovered on their own. His email was so detailed and thoughtful that I asked him if I could share it, and he graciously agreed. Here’s his letter below (with some inline notes and comments from me).

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"Hey Algis,

 Just wanted to give an update from our trip to Tokyo.

1. Bear Pond Espresso was a very cool spot! Unfortunately, Katsu wasn't there the day we went, but I was able to get the dirty latte which was fantastic.

^{—Algis: (Featured in Issue #2) Bear Pond Espresso is a world-class coffee place. The Dirty Latte and Angel Stain Espresso are what it’s known for. Bear Pond’s owner, Katsu, now only works once a week and not on a set day. He’s the only one who makes the Angel Stain Espresso, so you need to be a bit lucky to try one or go multiple times until you catch him.}

2. The indoor yatai inside the Chitose Kaikan building was great - the yakitori was delicious and it felt very authentic. A much different experience from the loudness/vibrancy of the indoor yatai in Kabukicho Tower, which was geared more towards travelers.

^{—Algis: (Issue #5). This indoor yatai floor is a great place to try many types of food and interact with locals.}

3. One of our favorite spots was Kichijoji in its entirety. Harmonica Yokocho and Inokashira Park were great - we stopped by Tsukemen Enji for dinner, which was probably one of the best tsukemen that we've had.

^{—Algis: Kichijoji (Issues #1, #12, #13). I love, love, love Kichijoji (Tsukemen Enji is fantastic and Harmonica Yokocho is an amazing place to hang out) and was thrilled that Philip and his brother felt the same way.}

4. Airalo worked out great as soon as we landed. It took a bit to make sure everything was working/connected as directed, but once we were on the correct network, it was a seamless experience.

^{—Algis: (Issue #13) The Airalo eSim has become my go-to, replacing the portable WiFi devices I used previously. So convenient.}

5. The other food highlight was going to a pizza place called Savoy, located right at Sensoji Temple. Pizza in Japan in general has been nothing short of excellent, and Savoy was our favorite from the trip (we also went to two other pizza places - one in Omotesando and one in Nakameguro).

^{—Algis: People don’t immediately think of pizza when they think of food in Japan, but pizza in Japan can be amazing. I haven’t been to Savoy (yet) but thanks to Philip it’s now on my list of places to try!}

6. We were surprised with how good the Indian food and naan bread were. In Shimokitazawa, there is a place called Nan Station right across from the B-Side Label (a short walk from Bear Pond Espresso), which had great curry and naan bread. The quality is much better than what I've had here in the US.

^{—Algis: I was so excited to read that Philip and his brother discovered Nan Station! I lived in Shimokitazowa very close to Nan Station and have been there more times than I can count. It never disappoints! It’s become very popular recently and there are often lines. Japan has excellent Indian food, and usually at a very good price point. I hadn’t had the chance to put Nan Station in the newsletter, but here it is now.} 

 ^{—Algis: I loved reading about the places Philip lists below and I can’t wait to try them.}

 Philip email cont’d:

7. KOFFEE MAMEYA (Kakeru location) was also insanely cool. You'll need a reservation in order to partake in their coffee tasting omakasae experience (which we didn't have), but they allowed us to sample and buy beans at the storefront. They have another take-out order location in Omotesando.

8. Urasando is a small dessert food hall located right around the corner from the KOFFEE MAMEYA location in Omotesando. Cute spot with delicious desserts.

    

9. Other cool coffee spots we had a chance to visit: iki Espresso (along Onagi River) and "Come to Life Espresso" (near Hamacho Park).

A lot that I could list off, but what I realized is that you can't go wrong with anything in Japan. 

Thanks again for the recommendations!

Philip Y.

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Thanks for the fantastic email, Philip. I loved hearing about your adventure!

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