• Japan or Die
  • Posts
  • Where to Stay in Tokyo • Viking • Harmonica Yokocho

Where to Stay in Tokyo • Viking • Harmonica Yokocho

Japan or Die - Issue #27

Where to Stay in Tokyo

Shinjuku at night

As with real estate, the most important aspect of hotel selection is location, location, location. Choosing the right location can make or break your holiday. Famous travel personalities including Anthony Bourdain and Rick Steves talk about the importance of choosing a central location near the things you want to do so you don’t waste precious vacation time traveling long distances to get to things you want to see and do. It’s generally not worth it to book a value hotel that is not in the best location to save a little money because you will ultimately pay in time, inconvenience, and transportation costs. This is one area I won’t compromise on.

Matching the hotel's vibe and the area to your personality and travel needs will easily improve your holiday.

Tokyo can feel confusing. Instead of viewing it as one giant megalopolis, consider it as numerous neighborhoods, each with its unique feel and attractions.

This list will help you choose the ideal location for your preferred style of travel.

Along with Shinjuku, this is one of the biggest, most eventful areas you can visit/stay. The iconic images of throngs of people at the Shibuya Crossing speak to the area itself. The energy here is palpable. You will be in the heart of the action. People go here to do everything and anything. As soon as you step out your door, you will have thousands of restaurants to choose from as well as lots of cool shops, bars, karaoke places, etc., at your disposal. There are endless things to do in Shibuya and it’s vibrant 24/7. It tends to skew a bit younger, but there is something for everyone. There are lots of excellent hotel options here.

Similar to Shibuya, Shinjuku is filled with cool things to do and tons of people everywhere. It also caters to nightlife. You will find more restaurants than you could eat at in your entire lifetime. Every night there will be people going out to eat, drink, and celebrate. There’s also a lot of shopping you can do during the day (Uniqlo, Kinokuniya Books, boutiques galore). There are some amazing hotels in this area. If you want the “Lost in Translation” experience, the Park Hyatt is in Shinjuku. The rooms have great views, and Anthony Bourdain was a fan of the Park Hyatt. Unfortunately, the Park Hyatt is currently undergoing comprehensive restoration and is due to reopen in Oct. 2025.

Akasaka (not to be confused with Asakusa) is an underrated and still mostly under-the-radar area to stay.

Since it’s not as well-known as Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Ginza the hotels tend to have lower prices. There are high-end options as well if you want to splash out and spoil yourself (The Okura Tokyo, Hotel New Otani). Akasaka is also very convenient as it has 4 useful train lines that will conveniently take you to popular tourist destinations. For example, the Metro Ginza Line goes to Ginza, Shibuya, Ueno, Asakusa, and Omotesando. Using the Metro Ginza Line more than the JR Yamanote Line is a great Tokyo hack. Much less crowded and generally smaller stations to navigate. It’s one of the most useful lines along with the JR Chuo Line. Akasaka also has nice nightlife that is not too crazy, but not too tame. 

Stay here to experience a musician/hipster vibe with tons of live music bars, great curry shops, amazing used and vintage clothing shopping, fewer crowds, my favorite Tokyo coffee shop, and a more intimate, small neighborhood vibe. Shimokitazawa Station has two lines, the Keio-Inokashira Line which you can take to get to Shibuya, Koenji, Kichijoji, and the Odakyu Odawara Line which goes to Shinjuku. There aren’t a lot of places to stay in Shimokitazawa, but I’ve heard good things about The Mustard Hotel.

Tokyoites routinely vote Kichijoji as the part of Tokyo they would most like to live in. It is like a smaller version of Tokyo itself. You could go to Tokyo and just stay in Kichijoji and have an amazing time. There’s plenty of nightlife including fancy restaurants, live music bars/clubs, jazz bars, and one of my favorite places in Tokyo, the famous Harmonica Yokocho (see below). There are malls and shopping galore, including vintage/used clothing, and antique goods stores. The Ghibli Museum is located in this area as well. Like most places in Tokyo, the food in Kichijoji is excellent. Kichijoji Station is on the Chuo line which is super convenient to access numerous other fun areas including Shinjuku, Nakano, Koenji, and Tokyo Station. It is also on the Keio Inokashira line which will take you to Shimokitazawa, Shinsen, and Shibuya. 

This is ground zero for otaku (geek) things. This word doesn’t carry the same connotations it might in other countries. It is used more to describe people who are hardcore into certain hobbies. For people who dig anime, manga, Japanese collectibles (toys, figurines, dolls, etc.), cosplay, the latest electronics, and things of that nature you will feel right at home here. Actually, you may be overwhelmed, and your head might explode (in a good way). 

A trendy, upscale area filled with boutiques, sidewalk cafes, and of course, the Daikanyama T-Site. A great area to shop without the busyness of Shibuya. It is, however, near Shibuya, so you can easily access all those shops and Shibuya nightlife.

For people who enjoy the best of everything and want the most convenient access to the fanciest restaurants and most upscale stores, Ginza is the place to stay. It is more on the quiet side at night. So if you want the party to be right outside your hotel door, then you may prefer Shinjuku, Shibuya, or Roppongi.

Roppongi is a unique mix. Like Ginza, Roppongi has 5-star hotels, swanky restaurants, and high-end shopping. Unlike Ginza, Roppongi is a notorious party area at night filled with restaurants, bars, and wild clubs.

This is a more expensive neighborhood with a higher amount of expats. It has a laid-back, and fancy vibe. You can hang out at the lively Ebisu Yokocho, or visit any of the numerous elegant restaurants. 

I’ve put these two areas together because they are so close to one another. Staying in this location gives you easy access to all the goodness of these parts of Tokyo. If you love high-end food and luxury shopping, this neighborhood is perfect as you can make Ginza your main attraction. If you are a runner, running around the outside of the Imperial Palace is a convenient and memorable way to get your fix. And being near Tokyo Station gives you convenient access to the Yamanote Line, Chuo Line, and to the Shinkansen when you are ready to go to other cities. You also get to experience the entire universe that is Tokyo Station, with all its shopping and food options. You can check out Ramen Street and all the character stores.

Note: You will most likely use the JR Yamanote Line frequently since it connects Tokyo’s most famous/popular areas. I recommend looking into and becoming familiar with the JR Chuo Line and the Metro Ginza Line because they are less busy than the Yamanote and connect numerous fun neighborhoods in Tokyo, often more directly than the Yamanote Line. Obviously, this depends on where you are staying.

Viking

Pizza Viking/All-you-can-eat pizza

We all know Japan is not where Vikings are from. But maybe you didn’t know, this is one way Japanese people say “all-you-can-eat”. I love this.

Keep your eye out for restaurants with Viking or “Baiking” (pronounced bye-king) the Japanese spelling, on their menu. This applies to things you may not think would normally be “all-you-can-eat” in your country. “Keiki Baiking” (Cake Viking) is quite popular in Japan. The Viking will be for a set time with 1 hour, 90 min, and 2 hours being the most common. This is also called Tabehodai (eat as much as you want), and the drinks version is Nomihodai (drink as much as you want).

Harmonica Yokocho

Harmonica Yokocho, Kichijoji

Harmonica Yokocho in Kichijoji is similar to Yakitori Alley in Shinjuku but with a much more local feel. Many travelers know about and go to Yakitori Alley, but Harmonica Yokocho has managed to stay somewhat under the radar. Even when you meet foreigners here, they tend to be people who are now living in Japan.

Harmonica Yokocho is a perfect place to enjoy delicious Japanese foods and interact with locals. It’s impossible not to get into some fun conversations while standing in an izakaya that only fits 6-10 people. Go here and be open to the possibilities. See where the night takes you. It is customary to hop from one restaurant to another as they all specialize in different foods and drinks. You might hit up a gyoza spot first and then shift over to a yakitori or kushikatsu place and then after plentiful beverages and endless conversations you will find yourself at a ramen joint to sop up the drinks and end the evening with a satisfying and filling carb feast. No two visits to this area are the same. You can mix and match shops to your liking and if you go more than once during your Tokyo holiday you will probably run into someone you met here on a previous visit.

I tend to prefer the smaller, more intimate places because, in addition to tasty foods, I’m here to chat with people. The smaller the place, the friendlier the people tend to be, but also, the less chance of them speaking English. You need to find the balance that works for you. I have included a variety of places to try in and near Harmonica Yokocho:

Yakiton Anchan

Yakiton Set at Yakiton Anchan in Harmonica Yokocho

There’s no English menu in this place, but the translation app on your phone will be enough to get you sorted here. Yakiton is grilled pork on a skewer. There are many savory cuts. Just order a set to get started. That way you can sample a variety and see which ones you prefer. This food pairs especially well with an ice-cold beer, which, thankfully, they serve.

Menu from Yakiton Anchan in Harmonica Yokocho

Xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) in orders of 4 or 6. It’s just right for a snack. Designed to look like a Taiwanese night market, this restaurant also makes crispy fried chicken to pair with your Xiaolongbao. Juicy grilled soup dumplings at a great price (600 yen for 4 or 900 yen for 6).

ハモ肉 - Hamoniku

At this small yakiniku (grilled meat) restaurant, you cook your meat on a small grill on the counter in front of you. It’s popular and gets packed (not hard to do when it can only fit about 8 people). Although the owner’s English is limited, she’s super friendly and has great interactions with the customers. You can tell there are a lot of regulars.

The high-quality, fresh meat is on par with fancy restaurants. It’s easy to get carried away and eat a lot at this location. If you’re feeling adventurous, get the grilled bacon-wrapped oyster. If that’s not for you, there are many cuts of meat to choose from.

I usually ask the owner/chef for her recommendations. Just say “osusume” and give a number (you can use your fingers for the number or say it in English). That way she knows how many different items to bring you. They aren’t big. it’s like eating tapas. The potato salad rocks (and is filling), and they also have TKG/Tamago Kake Gohan (raw egg on rice) which is a classic end-of-the-evening choice.

Food-wise, this is possibly my favorite restaurant in Harmonica Yokocho. The place is small and people will talk to you here (which I love). Many owners/bartenders of other izakaya in Harmonica Yokocho have recommended this place to me, cementing its great reputation. When the competition is sending you business, you must be doing something right.

Harmonica Kitchen and Bar

This is one of the bigger, more noticeable places. In addition to the ground level, there is an upstairs. They have yakitori/yakiton and various Chinese dishes including gyoza and excellent mapo tofu. I don’t even care for tofu and I can’t get enough of it. 

Also, you can get a highbrow lowbrow kind of drink where you get a bottle of nice hoppy beer and a glass of average shochu. You drink a bit of the beer and pour some shochu into the beer glass. Now you have something that tastes a bit like a shandy (beer and ginger ale. Popular in Australia). 

If you’re a first-timer, this spot tends to get busy and jumping and it’s a pretty easy entry to the Yokocho. The Mama-san of this shop is very nice. I don’t look at the menu often, but I’m pretty sure they have an English menu.

So many izakaya, so little time

Harmonica Yokocho before it gets busy

Kura sushi 

This is a famous inexpensive sushi chain in Japan (They have expanded to the USA, but there is no comparison). They have many locations. This is a good choice if you want to stretch your budget or eat until your sides explode. It’s not where you go if you want to chat with people. It’s where you go when you are ravenous and want a good bargain.

Bar Hanachan 

This bar was inspired by the Midnight Diner Manga/TV/Movie series. It’s a quirky hole-in-the-wall with an idiosyncratic owner/bartender. I haven’t been to this particular bar, but I love Midnight Diner and am curious about this place. It gets a bit of a mixed review from the Tofugu crew.

Before sunset in Harmonica Yokocho

Here are a couple of good places to go after spending some time in Harmonica Yokocho:

Hopeken Honpo Kichijoji 

This ramen place is just around the corner from Harmonica Yokocho. It stays open until 3 AM so it’s the perfect place to have your final meal after a night of drinking in Harmonica Yokocho. I wrote more about it here.

This is not in Harmonica Yokocho, but it’s not too far away either. If you’re out later than 3 AM (when Hopeken Honpo closes) this is a good option for that final bowl of ramen before heading back to your hotel. Be warned, this location is down a flight of stairs, so if you are particularly tipsy, you may not want to tempt fate.

Granny Smith Apple Pie & Coffee

Just a short walk from Harmonica Yokocho. You can grab a slice of apple pie here. They are not open late, so this might be a place you go on a different day during the daytime. I put this here because I like pie and this place has pie. Sometimes, I grab one of these, take it to my hotel room, and put it in the fridge to eat as a snack after visiting Harmonica Yokocho.

The above places are just something to give you a starting point. I recommend going into whatever location catches your eye, talking to the other customers, and asking for recommendations on where to go next. Even the bartenders and shop owners will suggest places to go next based on what you want (type of food, type of drinks, small/big, etc…). It’s all part of the adventure and a great way to discover your Tokyo.

Footnote: These bars are the perfect venue to buy the bartender/owner/chef a drink. It’s what Japanese people do instead of tipping.

A couple more quick tips: Don’t go to these places in large groups. 1-2 people is good. 3-4 people can be a stretch sometimes, depending on the size of the place. Carry cash. Many of these places don’t take credit cards.

Disclosure: Japan or Die is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission and you will earn our deepest gratitude. Thanks for your support.