What Are You Doing Here?

Previously, I wrote about how sometimes to have a super local Japanese experience, you need to feel the fear and do it anyway. I write about izakayas a lot because I think they are one of the best ways to interact with Japanese people. If I could only give one piece of advice about Japan, it would be: go to non-famous izakayas and chat with people. Period.

Recently, a local at a small izakaya in Harmonica Yokocho asked me and my friends, “What are you doing here?” When I heard this, with tons of emphasis on here, I knew we were in the right place. I mean, I already knew. But this confirmed it. She wasn’t asking what we were doing in Tokyo, she was asking why we were in Kichijoji, and more specifically in this small 6–8-person izakaya in Harmonica Yokocho.

My friends (who had been in Tokyo less than 24 hrs at this point), and I, had been chatting with her, two other customers, and the bartender for a while at this point, and the questions were coming fast. This is a quintessential Japan experience. A local izakaya, off the tourist trail. 

In addition to having some of the most memorable evenings and making friends, you’ll quickly find that tiny izakayas provide a goldmine of insider information. They are where you’ll invariably get the best recommendations on what, and where, to go eat. You’ll learn about other small places (highly unlikely to be found by most tourists) with quality food at great prices. Locals don’t overpay for just ok food. By visiting small izakayas, you can break out of the algorithm, and discover your own secret places.

Izakayas in Golden Gai (Kabukicho), Nonbei Yokocho (Shibuya), and Yakitori Alley (Shinjuku) are fun, and I’ve had great times in all of them, but they are full of tourists and losing a lot of local charm. It doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go to them, but, if possible, go somewhere more local as well.

When travelers complain about Japanese people being shy, I always wonder if they’ve taken the initiative to go to any izakayas. Like British pubs, these are the places where locals interact freely. If you go to ones that aren’t the usual tourist spots, they will be genuinely curious about you and you will have entertaining conversations in some combination of English, Japanese, and universal sign language. Aided by the most common language enhancer, alcohol. You don’t have to drink alcohol to go to an izakaya, but you do have to drink something. That’s how they make money. So you can’t just go in and grab a water. Get a soda if you’re not into drinking. Izakayas also generally have foods that pair well with drinking, so you will be eating as well if you want. All my favorite yokocho and izakaya spots have amazing food.

Here’s an article on an alternative to tipping which is useful to know before visiting an izakaya.

Here’s a sampling of local lingo that comes in handy in these places.

Most Important Word

The most important Japanese word to know is sumimasen (excuse me/sorry). 

Everyone learns this word, but the test comes when you have to use it in a crowded, noisy restaurant to get a server’s attention, so you can put in your food and drink order. 

I’ve witnessed even the boldest travelers hesitate in this situation. It just feels so wrong to have to yell loud enough to be heard over the music and conversations in a restaurant to summon the servers.

It seems rude and you will probably be a bit uncomfortable the first few times. But you must get over yourself. This is how it’s done in Japan. 

So learn sumimasen, and suimasen (a shortened more casual version you will hear often), and practice saying them loud and proud, so you can blend in with the locals. 

Tanuki

In Japan, you will often see tanuki statues and statuettes placed outside homes, shops, and restaurants.

At some point, you’ll ask someone, “what is a tanuki?” They will, of course, tell you “It’s a raccoon-dog.” As if that is the most normal thing in the world; a raccoon-dog. But that’s just part of the story.

In Japanese folklore, tanuki are known for being mischievous, shapeshifting tricksters, often playing pranks on humans. However, it is also believed that if you put a tanuki outside your home, business, etc., it will bring good luck, success, and protection.

You might wonder if this mystical creature is indeed an actual real-life animal. 

The answer is yes. Yes it is.

To see Tanuki in action, watch this video.
To learn the Japanese myth of the shape-shifter Tanuki, watch this 3-minute story.

BEAMS Japan Los Angeles Pop-up

A few weeks ago, I wrote about Beams Planets Shimokitazawa and how it started as a popup store. 

If you want to get a taste of Beams without going to Japan, and happen to live in Los Angeles (or nearby), you’re in luck. Beams is doing a popup in Los Angeles from July 30 to September 26.

NOTE: I am not affiliated with Beams in any way. I just like them!

The most clicked link from the previous issue was for this incredibly useful coin holder designed to keep the inevitable numerous Japanese coins in your pocket organized.

The 2nd most clicked link from the previous issue was for this fun video about the man who has composed over 200 train jingles that play at Japanese train stations.

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