Village Vanguard

Village Vanguard is an odd and captivating place. Products are everywhere and the store design feels like a bunch of small alleyways winding this way and that. It’s a whimsical store that feels like someone’s personal idiosyncratic dream.

The diversity of things they sell is absurd. When people say a place has something for everyone, it’s usually BS, but Village Vanguard carries a ridiculous range of items, I’d be shocked if you don’t find something you want.

One section is filled with men’s workwear from famous American and Japanese brands. There are walls of backpacks. If you want stickers, they’ve got stickers from B-Side Label and other brands.

Oh, books, you’re looking for books. They have everything from manga to how to cop Steve McQueen’s look and vibe to how to decorate your home “California Style.”

Unusual things that could fall in the white elephant or even gag-gift territory are plentiful as well. Most people don’t need a curry bowl shaped like a golden toilet, but you never know when that may come in handy.

Maybe you’re looking for Star Wars, Sesame Street, or Batman collectibles. Village Vanguard sells figurines, shirts, plush toys, comic books written in Japanese, mugs, keychains, hats, and various other branded merchandise.

Village Vanguard can be an overwhelming experience if you try to see it all in one go, so pace yourself and explore. Chances are you’ll find the perfect something to take home with you.

Ameyoko (America Yokocho/Candy Yokocho)

One of Tokyo’s most famous open markets is Ameyoko in Ueno, a short walk from Ueno Station. Ameyoko has an outdoor market vibe similar to Venice Beach, CA (minus the beach and the smell of weed). This is one of the rare areas in Japan where you can actually negotiate over the price of items (maybe a 10-15% discount).

Ameyoko started as a black market after the war. Now it’s a place where people look for bargains on all kinds of clothing, food items, and miscellaneous goods —not to mention the numerous restaurants. It’s also famous for having candy shops, so make sure to get some snacks. 

With over 400 stores it’s a fantastic place to get souvenirs. You can easily spend several hours browsing, shopping, eating, and drinking. You’ll find places selling satin bomber jackets with cool embroidery, etched zippo lighters, leather jackets, knives, kitchen wares, household decorations, novelty items, American-style army jackets, and more. There’s also an arcade with claw machines and video games, plus several dozen eateries/food stalls with delicious local and foreign favorites including chirashi (sushi bowls), takoyaki, fresh fruit on a stick, standing sushi bars, kakigori (Japanese shaved ice. So good!), kebab, pizza, and tons more choices.

I like to grab a fresh chirashi bowl (mixed sushi bowl) from one of the numerous places selling them. They are delicious, a great value, and filling. The salmon, ikura, and tuna combination is my go-to bowl, but there are many other options.

You could also snack on things in between shopping. Fruit on a stick is quite popular.

If you go to Ameyoko, you can plan a whole day in Ueno. Begin by taking a relaxing stroll around Ueno Park, then visit the Tokyo National Museum, which is located there. After that, go experience America Yokocho. First, grab a bite to eat so you have plenty of energy to explore. When you’re tired of shopping, visit a nearby cat cafe (or regular cafe) to chill and recharge. Finally, walk around the area near the station and grab an early dinner from an izakaya. There are many around.

Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki is a type of savory pancake. Chopped cabbage, flour, and eggs are mixed to create a batter which is then cooked on a grill. Various toppings from pork to shrimp to squid to egg are added onto the pancake, and finally, it’s topped with bonito flakes and a special sauce. It’s fun to sit at the counter and watch the chef prepare your food. 

This dish may sound odd to Western folks, but it is not to be missed. I became a fan after my first bite. It’s hard to come by outside Japan and when you do find it elsewhere, it’s often just a pale imitation leaving you longing for the real thing.

The two main styles are Osaka style and Hiroshima style. The main difference is that Hiroshima style has noodles in it and Osaka style does not. I hope you try both and see which you prefer. I’m decidedly in the Osaka camp.

A couple of good okonomiyaki spots in Tokyo:

Harajuku Yai Yai 

Harajuku Yai Yai is perfectly situated near Cat Street with lots of amazing shopping in Harajuku. They serve Osaka-style okonomiyaki and there is an English menu. My favorite is the pork and leek okonomiyaki.

They also have ice-cold Asahi on draft. I find that goes perfectly with the savory pancake. Try for a counter seat if you’re a small party of 1 or 2 so you can watch the chefs cook. However, they also have several tables, and if you are a larger party that’s where you will be seated.

Link: https://www.opefac.com/restaurant/yaiyai/

Okonomiyaki Kiji (2 locations. Marunouchi and Shinagawa)

This is a Tokyo outpost of a classic Osaka favorite. It’s even been awarded Bib Gourmand status from Michelin. It’s hard to pick a favorite, everything I’ve had here was good. There is an English menu and some of the staff also speak English here.