Tokyo Noir

Tokyo Noir: In and Out of Japan’s Underworld is Jake Adelstein’s follow-up to his cult favorite, Tokyo Vice (the book and the hit TV series on HBO MAX starring Ansel Elgort, Ken Watanabe, Shu Kasamatsu, and Rachel Keller).

Tokyo Noir starts right after the events of Tokyo Vice have taken place. No longer a crime reporter for the Yomiuri Shinbun, Adelstein is now a private investigator specializing in finding out about corporations that don’t want to be investigated due to their yakuza connections.

Jake’s experience in investigative journalism serves him well in this new endeavor, and the book is full of interesting insights and tidbits about Japanese and yakuza culture.

The book goes into how organized crime and corporate corruption work together. The yakuza has a long and multifaceted history in Japan. For example, although they are an organized crime group, they are also known to sometimes work positively, such as providing aid during the 2011 earthquake/tsunami/Fukushima disaster. They sent numerous trucks bearing tons of supplies to help displaced people, while at the same time looking out for their interests by securing construction contracts for yakuza-linked construction firms.

Darker and messier than Tokyo Vice, Tokyo Noir also explores Jake’s personal struggles. It shows him wrestling with the existential questions that most of us confront at some point in our lives: “What am I doing with my life?” and similar questions.

Tokyo Noir introduces you to some interesting real-life characters, like Jake’s bodyguard, Saigo. Previously an Inagawa-kai yakuza boss with 150 men under his command, Saigo was nicknamed Tsunami due to the violent, and unpredictable destruction he could cause if you pissed him off.

If you like detective stories, hearing about the seedier side of things, and learning about Japan’s underworld, you’ll enjoy this book.

If you want more yakuza after reading Tokyo Noir, The Last Yakuza: Life and Death in the Japanese Underworld tells the story of Jake’s late bodyguard, Saigo (aka Tsunami).

Some of my favorite books by Japanese authors (not yakuza-centered)

My brief encounter with a yakuza

Yokocho (Pt. 1)

Yokocho are back streets filled with old-fashioned drinking and eating establishments. These small alleyways are located everywhere, from high-energy neighborhoods of Shinjuku and Shibuya (although not always obvious if you don’t know what you’re looking for) to smaller, more laid-back neighborhoods like Kichijoji, Koenji, and Sangenjaya.

If you’ve been reading this newsletter for any length of time, you already know I love yokocho. They are one of the best ways to interact with locals, learn about culture first hand, and practice your Japanese (or miming skills), all while having delicious food and drinks. If it’s not the best way to spend your time in Japan, it’s certainly one of the best ways. 

If you’re new here, there’s no better time than now to be introduced to several yokocho, including ones you may not have visited or heard of yet.

I’ve listed these roughly from most famous/known to less known/more local (It’s not a perfect science):

Omoide Yokocho/Memory Lane/Yakitory Alley/Piss Alley in Shinjuku - Yes. It goes by all those names. Located in Shinjuku, it goes from the streets near Shinjuku Station’s West Exit area to the Omekaido Overbridge. It is said to be one of the inspirations for parts of Blade Runner. This was my first yokocho (thanks to Bourdain) and still holds tremendous nostalgic appeal, even though it’s quite famous now, and certain to have many tourists taking photos. It’s still the first place I go in Tokyo after dropping off my luggage at a hotel. If I land in the evening. Most of the shops in Yakitori Alley don’t open until around 5 or 6 pm.

Golden Gai in Shinjuku - Filled with around 275+ drinking establishments, Golden Gai is famous worldwide and also attracts a lot of tourists. Some of the bars are members only, or Japanese people only, and most of the bars have cover charges, so make sure to ask so you know what you’re in for. 

Nonbei Yokocho in Shibuya - Nonbei Yokocho means drunkard’s alley and the nonbei yokocho in Shibuya is not the only nonbei yokocho in Tokyo, but it is certainly one of the most famous. Strangely enough, even though it is located in Shibuya, not far from Shibuya Station’s Hachiko Exit, it is not as well known worldwide as Omoide Yokocho or Golden Gai. This small area filled with tiny bars and izakaya is a wonderful contrast to the neon-hype of Shibuya. Most of the establishment are tiny, seating only 4-8 people. This guarantees interaction between patrons and owners. It’s a wonderful way to meet people from all walks of life and learn more about Tokyo from them, while having some tasty food and cold drinks. There aren’t a lot of food menus in these places, so read about “osusume” below and you’ll know how to order. It’s best to go to these places solo or in groups of no more than 3 because there simply isn’t space in these small bars to accommodate larger groups.

Harmonica Yokocho in Kichijoji - I recommend Harmonica Yokocho to everyone. It’s the perfect sweet spot for a local experience for someone just getting into the world of yokocho. It’s big enough to have tons of options, easy to get to from Shinjuku or Shibuya (which is where most people stay), and has a vibrant, welcoming atmosphere even if you’re not super familiar with izakaya. You can read more here, including my recommendations of several izakaya for you to visit in Harmonica Yokocho.

Ameya Yokocho in Ueno - Well known for having many tachinomi (standing and drinking) spots, with many opening in the afternoon. Go here if you don’t want to wait until the evening to start your izakaya crawl. Prices tend to be on the less expensive side, and there’s lots of great food here as well. Ameya Yokocho (aka Ameyoko) is also a fun area to go shopping. It reminds me a bit of the Venice Beach, CA boardwalk shopping area.

Gado-Shita in Koenji - Gado-Shita means under the tracks, and that’s what you’ll find here. Tons of restaurants directly under, and extending in both directions from the tracks at Koenji Station. It’s a very local vibe. I wrote more about this here.

Sankaku Chitai in Setagaya - “Sankaku Chitai” meaning triangle zone is a triangular maze-like area of izakaya, bars, and eateries situated around a 5 min walk from Sangenjaya Station. There’s a cozy, retro ambiance here and the small side streets are filled with a warm light from the numerous paper lanterns. Some spots may have “regulars only” signs. Most shops don’t open until after 7 pm. Since this yokocho is slightly out of the way, and not as well known to tourists, you will get a very local experience here.

As with a lot of small businesses in Japan, many of the establishments in these yokocho do not accept anything but cash, so bring cash. Some of the bars in any of these locals will have cover charges, usually between 300-500 yen, but occasionally more. It pays to ask so you don’t get any unwanted surprises. A few locations may have “regulars only” or “no tourists“ signs. Don’t be discouraged, there are plenty that don’t do this.

I’ve spent many evenings enjoying yokochos, and the overall vibe is generally welcoming, and even more so if you learn some simple Japanese greetings, a few phrases here and there, and observe basic Japanese etiquette.

These seven areas should enable you to have a great time in Tokyo. I don’t want to overwhelm people, so I will introduce more another time.

Osusume

Since I’m encouraging people to go to a yokocho, I’m including an expression that is very useful once you get there. Osusume means recommendation. It’s a word I highly recommend you learn. Make sure you learn the whole phrase “osusume wa nan desu ka?”( it means - “what is your recommendation?” Or “what do you recommend?”). You can use this in a few different ways and in many kinds of restaurants. 

If you’re in a restaurant and they don’t have an English menu, you can simply ask “osusume wa nan desu ka?” And when they tell you, even if you don’t understand what they said, answer with “onegaishimasu” (please) and they will know that’s what you want. Admittedly, this strategy is better for people who are adventurous eaters. Although staff are unlikely to recommend super unusual items to foreigners, so you should be fine either way. Unless you dislike more standard Japanese fare like raw fish, have food allergies, or are vegan or vegetarian. I certainly wouldn’t do this under those circumstances, but I’m sure you know that already.

Sometimes they will recommend several items, and then you can decide which and how many of those you want. Miming and pointing may be involved if you didn’t completely understand their response. Google Translate is useful here as well.

Of course, you should also use the phrase “osusume wa nan desu ka?” in places where they do speak English and/or have an English menu, because it’s great to hear from the chef or server what they think is good. It may steer you to have something you wouldn’t have otherwise ordered, and it may become one of your favorite dishes. It’s how I learned about buta kakuni, which is one of my top ten Japanese dishes, and something I order whenever a place has it.

It’s particularly fun to order this way at izakayas. 

Some of my fondest memories of living in Nagoya involve visiting my friend’s izakaya.

One of my best Japanese friends, the chef and owner of an izakaya, is so good at osusume. He’s the one who taught me this word and this style of ordering. I would go to his shop and say “osusume” (this is a casual way to say it instead of saying the entire phrase). After asking how many dishes, he would disappear into the kitchen and then start bringing me delicious things to eat. Sashimi, a small salad, harumaki, potato salad, fried renkon, kushikatsu, mini-pizza, tenshinhan, ramen, and the list goes on. Not all in one night, of course. Well, maybe sometimes. This is also the izakaya where I learned how to show appreciation for the chef and tip Japanese-style.

As I tried each offering, he would note my reaction and keep a list of my favorite foods in his head. I went to his shop four times a week for maybe six months, and he could recite from memory what I had on specific days, how much I liked it, and then make variations of my favorites.

By asking for osusume, you’re trusting the chef or staff. This usually results in receiving the best and/or most popular dishes the restaurant makes. 

Depending on how many dishes you order, you will most likely receive a combination of the restaurant’s most famous dish, something seasonal and fresh from the daily specials menu, a unique item the chef loves, and sometimes even off-menu items they make for you because they feel inspired.

I almost forgot to mention that saying osusume and letting the chef decide what you should have is a part of izakaya culture. It’s one way Japanese people commonly order food; chefs and servers are accustomed to it, so you will not be requesting anything unusual. Japanese restaurants take pride in their best offerings, and without knowing what those are in advance, requesting osusume is the easiest way to experience those foods.

“Osusume wa nan desu ka?” will unlock a whole new world of delicious food and enable you to get by in restaurants where no English is spoken and/or no English menu is available. If you try it, let me know how it goes.

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The 2nd most clicked link was this previous post on how Japanese people tip in an izakaya

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