Noah Smith says Tokyo is the new Paris

The magic of Japan is hard to describe. It’s not just the endless ways to entertain yourself, it’s the feeling that anything is possible; the buzz of creativity, exploration, and pushing boundaries. This futuristic forward-thinking co-exists with a very traditional culture, creating a captivating dichotomy.

I write this newsletter in the hopes that more people will be inspired to go and experience this spectacular country. —And, ideally, for you to have a better understanding of Japan, and more fun on your holiday than if you hadn’t come across Japan or Die.

An article written by Noah Smith (an economist with a passion for Japan) eloquently captures the charm and uniqueness of Tokyo. Noah dives deep into why Tokyo is such a spellbinding city full of rich experiences. The entire article is beautifully written, but I especially like this section:

“…If you’ve never been, it’s time to go.

Words can only grope clumsily at the sensation of actually being in Tokyo. I could describe to you the experience of sipping artisanal cocoa in a quiet bar in Omotesando that looks like it was run through a warming filter; of strolling through a silent park next to a shrine with cherries in bloom; of sipping cheap beer and eating greasy fried chicken in a tiny pub at midnight while a crowd of middle-aged regulars sings their favorite song; of discovering a college student’s art in a free gallery that would put many professional exhibitions to shame; of standing in a quiet grove on a carpet of flowers while brand-new skyscrapers loom just beyond the tree line; of squeezing your way through a tiny cobblestone alley hung with lanterns to eat on top of a barrel.

These were all things I did on my last trip, and they were not particularly unusual or remarkable experiences. They are the tiniest sliver of daily existence in Tokyo, which at times can feel more like floating than living. Or as the title of a novel put it in 1981, inexplicably crystalline.”

Noah mentions six varied and exceptional experiences he had the last time he was in Tokyo, that would make anyone’s holiday unforgettable. He then states that all of those things “are not particularly unusual or remarkable.”

I couldn’t agree more, as this has also been my experience. Any given day in Tokyo can turn into a series of highlights, even if they are sometimes small things. The combination of perfect everyday, slice-of-life moments and unforgettable only in Japan things make Japan a unique and rewarding travel destination.

When I write about Tokyo, I don’t want you to think I’ve somehow been singularly lucky to experience things others can’t or won’t. The depth and breadth of experiences available at any time in Tokyo are staggering and available to anyone willing to be somewhat adventurous. This is life in Tokyo. 

I highly recommend you read Noah’s full article. He goes into depth on many aspects of Tokyo and how zoning laws help create the magic that is ever-present by enabling more possibilities for people to interact safely with one another daily.

Tokyo can feel like a real-life Disneyland, and while no city is perfect, it’s a thriving, growing, evolving metropolis overflowing with possibilities. However, I should mention that Tokyo is by no means the only place in Japan that feels this way. Some of my most remarkable experiences have been in other cities in Japan. I’m currently writing primarily about Tokyo because that is where most people will visit. —But I plan on writing more about other cities in Japan soon. For now, simply know that the majority of things Tokyo offers are also available in all the major cities in Japan (Osaka, Kyoto, Yokohama, Nagoya, Kobe, and Fukuoka, among others).

In addition, if you love meeting and interacting with locals, the Japanese people in cities outside Tokyo are more likely to be curious about you. Aside from Kyoto, which is currently overwhelmed with tourists, all these cities don’t get as many travelers, contributing to local Japanese people’s interest in foreigners.

Enjoy Tokyo, but I also urge you to explore other cities and smaller towns.

Tax-Free Shopping

If the weak yen isn’t enough to entice you to do some shopping while in Japan, you should also know that many shops in Japan offer tax-free shopping to tourists for purchases over 5,000 yen (Currently about $31 USD). Show your passport and you will not be charged tax. The tax is normally 8%-10% depending on the purchase.

Travelers on a temporary visitor Visa are also eligible for this program.

Here’s the most up-to-date information on how this works.

This website lets you search for Tax-free shops by category, area, topic, and GPS.

Happy shopping, and don’t forget to have your passport handy.

Chain Izakayas

I love izakayas. 

Though I prefer the small funky ones in the numerous yokochos (Harmonica Yokocho, Yakitori Alley/Omoide Yokocho, Sankaku Chitai Yokocho in Sangenjaya, —There is a time and place to visit a chain izakaya:

• When you are dining alone and don’t want to chat with anyone

• When you are with a large group

  (a small izakaya simply wouldn’t be big enough to seat you)

• When your group of 3 or 4 people has widely varied tastes in food (izakayas have a broad selection of dishes)

• When you are in a part of town you don’t know well

  (Chain izakayas provide a known quantity)

Also, these are great places to go when you don’t want to break the bank as they tend to have inexpensive drinks and food. Enough with the reasons. Here are some chain izakayas. I hope you find this useful.

Hanbey

The full name is Hakuri Tabai Hanbey, but nobody calls it that. This chain is a throwback to Showa Era Japan. Every available surface is covered in advertisement posters, movie posters, and toys from that time (check out the colorful photos on their website.). This creates a fun, retro atmosphere. To complete the vibe, Enka music fills the air. 

Hanbey is an extremely inexpensive izakaya with a party atmosphere. It's the least expensive on this list. The old-school decorations will put a smile on your face. The food is not exceptional except for the low prices and broad selection. Still, this is an entertaining place to go with a group of friends and get the festivities going. 

The drinks, also inexpensive, include highballs (Large size is 396 yen, regular size 209 yen for the basic highball. For a fancier highball made with Ballantine’s Scotch or Jim Beam whiskey, you will pay 385 yen for the regular size), beer, and chu-high (shochu and soda combo).

In addition to those izakaya standards, they have various flavors of alcohol and milk cocktails (banana, peach, chocolate, sakura, matcha, strawberry, melon, cassis, red bean, and coffee). These aren’t blended like a mudslide, but they are sweet. Perfect for people who like their drinks to taste like desserts.

Read the full drink menu here if you’re curious

While you’re at it, check out the extensive food menu here

Go to Hanbey for a kitschy good time.

Torikizoku 

Known for its yakitori (grilled meat skewers. Primarily chicken). Toriki as the locals call it, is a great value choice. Most items on the menu are priced at 370 yen for yakitori 2 skewers. The hand-made skewers are from Japan-sourced chicken to ensure freshness. They can seat large parties, have an English menu, and have locations all over Japan with almost 200 in Tokyo alone. Toriki is very popular and therefore can have long lines to get in. Try to time your visit before or after main dinner hours to avoid the lines.

Here are links to their menus: English • Chinese • Korean • Japanese

Za-Watami

Part of the Watami Izakaya empire (Watami and Wataminchi are two other izakaya chains owned by this company). I’m most familiar with Za-Watami, but all of them are good. The concept is to have a slightly more elevated izakaya experience. This place is still a chain, but they fancy things up a bit and it’s a more expensive choice. In addition to yakitori, they offer sashimi, small pizzas, sushi, salads, noodle dishes, and other Japanese foods.

Toritetsu

The yakitori at Toritetsu is great across the board, but the tsukune (chicken meatball yakitori) in particular is a standout. You can choose from several types including the classic tare (teriyaki sauce), the rich cheese-covered, the tart ume + shiso, and a few others. The butabara (pork belly) skewers are also a great choice. Add in potato salad, karaage, gyoza, and, maybe, some soup dumplings if you’re still hungry, and you’ll have a nice meal.

The quality of the yakitori here is higher than at Hanbey or Torikizoku, but so is the price. You get what you pay for. It’s still a chain izakaya specializing in yakitori so the prices are reasonable compared to many independent yakitori shops.

Here’s their menu

Shibuya Indoor Yatai 

I also recommend this indoor yatai area on the second floor of the Shibuya Chitose building in Shibuya. It’s not a chain izakaya, it’s a whole floor with 20+ individual izakaya/yatai-style shops sharing the space. You can walk around all over and eat at more than one shop. Start at the sushi place, then move over to a yakitori or yakiniku spot, then go somewhere else with the new friends you’ve inevitably made at this very social yatai area.

I wrote about it here

Here’s a link to their list of restaurants

Their main webpage

Some general izakaya tips:

When ordering yakitori you will usually be given the choice between Shio and tare (salt and sauce. The sauce is a kind of lightly sweetened soy sauce). Most diehard yakitori freaks choose Shio/salt because you can taste the chicken more, but neither answer is the correct answer. Try a few skewers of each and see what you like best. 

The most flavorful yakitori skewers are generally the ones from dark meat: thigh, leg, and wing. The breast meat skewers often have something on them like wasabi or cheese or mayonnaise or yuzu-kosho (a citrus fruit/pepper combo paste) to add extra flavor because they taste milder otherwise.

I’ve never met anyone who doesn’t like the chicken meatball skewers (tsukune). Ordering the tsukune with sauce instead of salt is very nice. They are heavier and meatier than other yakitori so the flavor balance with sauce works well. These can be three smaller meatballs on a skewer or sometimes the entire skewer has one big, long meatball. The slightly fancier places tend to have the one long meatball while less expensive places usually have the three meatballs. That’s just a generality, you can throw it out the window when you go to smaller, more individual yakitoriyas and izakayas.

Yakitori can also be pork or beef, so keep your eye out for those skewers. The pork belly (butabara) is a rich, savory cut and many people’s favorite. Yakitori also has grilled vegetable skewers - mushroom, asparagus, okra, garlic, onion, and tomato are commonly offered.

I don’t want to repeat myself since I wrote about yakitori here.

The chain izakayas have a section of the menu called the “speed menu”. These are small side dishes they bring out immediately after you order them to enjoy with your first drink (traditionally a beer if you’re Japanese) and take the edge off your hunger while you wait for the rest of your food to be prepared. At most places, the cabbage comes with free refills.

Normally you order the food in rounds, like tapas or dim sum. Order a few things, eat, drink, then order more.

Karaage (fried chicken) is a filling side dish and Japan is known for fried chicken.

Chain izakayas are often not on street level. Look up at the buildings, even the ones that look like office buildings. That’s where you will see them. Others will be downstairs from the street.

Izakayas also often serve Western foods like french fries and pizza, Chinese dishes like gyoza, soup dumplings, and shumai, and more single-serving type Japanese dishes like a donburi bowl or a bowl of ramen (these are smaller than the ones you get at a dedicated ramen or donburi shop).