Tensuke in Koenji, Tokyo

“The lines that form outside Tensuke at lunchtime are a part of the Koenji landscape. Inside, one voice after another calls for the ‘Egg Lunch’. Accompanying the speciality of deep-fried egg on rice, tempura items are fried in a set order. Another speciality is the performance of the chef, who tosses the eggshells in the air in poses worthy of a kabuki actor. The idea is to make the waiting time fun, too. Deep-fried eggs fill mouths with yolk and smiles.”

That is a quote from the Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand. 

This place is outstanding, entertaining, and in a great part of town.

I’m a huge fan of Koenji; live bars (especially the punk ones), vintage clothing shops, ramen shops, izakayas, and the overall vibe. Koenji is a highly underrated neighborhood in Tokyo.

Many people have heard of Shimokitazawa and Kichijoji, but somehow Koenji has managed to stay mostly off the radar. This is where you want to go for a truly local experience.

And, yes, Tensuke is as good as it sounds. Cash only, so be prepared.

Here’s the address:
3-22-7 Koenjikita, Suginami-ku, Tokyo, 166-0002, Japan

Wagashi

Wagashi are traditional Japanese sweets made of mochi, Azuki bean paste (anko), and fruit. Customarily served with tea, they are often intricately shaped into beautiful flowers or other colorful and pleasing shapes.

They’re perfect souvenirs, if you can manage not to eat them. At least the ones that aren’t meant to be consumed within a day.

I highly recommend wagashi. There are many varieties, and you may need to try numerous ones to find your favorites. 

Here’s the website for the Tokyo Wagashi Association. It has a great breakdown of styles and examples to get your sweet tooth going. None of them are incredibly sweet by Western standards.

For an incredibly high-end wagashi shopping experience in Tokyo (or Kyoto as this is originally a Kyoto shop), go to Toraya. They’ve been around since the 16th century and the Tokyo flagship store in Akasaka is incredible. The shop itself is beautiful and the products include wagashi, matcha tea, and a signature red bean paste beverage among other things. Enjoy some wagashi in the cafe, then spend some time choosing omiyage (souvenirs) in the shop. There are lots of wagashi that are fine at room temperature and therefore easy to transport home.

Don’t worry if you can’t make it to Toraya, there are wagashi shops all over town and at train stations.

Secret Buddha

There’s a temple on a quiet back street in Setagaya that many Tokyoites don’t know about. The Tamagawa Daishi Temple, also called “Gyokushin Mitsuin”, is one of many temples in Tokyo. What makes it unique is the 100-meter-long underground tunnel which represents the intestines of Dainichi Nyorai, the embodiment of the Buddhist concept of emptiness. 

After removing your shoes and stepping inside the temple, you will be led to the tunnel. There is a small fee. The tunnel is pitch black, you’ll find your way by feeling along the wall, eventually, you’ll see light and reach incense-filled chambers. Once inside, you can locate the statue that corresponds with your age and offer a coin for luck. 

Photos and flashlights are forbidden, and the journey is meant to be experienced in silence.

It’s a bit scary, so if you don’t enjoy that sort of thing, this temple is not for you. —But it’s an incredible feeling to go through the tunnel and back. 

It’s near Futako-Tamagawa Station. 

Here’s the address:
4-13-3 Seta, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo, 158-0095