Shinjuku

Shinjuku. My first favorite place in Japan. Overcrowded? Definitely. Edgy? Yes. Humming with electric energy? Absolutely. And, it’s amazing.

The moment I first arrived in Shinjuku I felt at home. I wanted to see and do everything. There’s never not something to do in Shinjuku.

The Blade Runner vibes of Yakitori Alley, Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, people watching, visiting (Tokyu) Hands in the Takashimaya building, Kinokuniya Bookstore in the Takashimaya Annex building, numerous Uniqlo stores, Yodobashi Camera (the Shinjuku location is the original), Jazz Kissa (this is the best book I know about them), bars, so many incredible restaurants, lights, people, action.

An endless stream of activity and entertainment. Buzzing with excitement. The inspiration for most of Daido Moriyama’s street photography. The main filming area of Lost in Translation. Shinjuku was everything I needed from Tokyo, and more.

Some people love the Shibuya vibe or Roppongi or Harajuku or Ginza. For me, Shinjuku has always been number one in terms of the big, bustling major areas in Tokyo.

Whatever I did during the day, I always returned to Shinjuku at night. Walking around Shinjuku is like walking around Manhattan times 10. In the evening, as the sky darkens and the city lights illuminate everything, the energy is palpable.

I still love going to Shinjuku even if it isn’t the focus of my Tokyo experience anymore. Now, I tend to spend more time and write more often about smaller, less known Tokyo neighborhoods with fewer tourists.

You most likely have Shinjuku on your itinerary already, and it’s just a matter of deciding what to do there. Use the tips in this post to find great Japanese restaurants. I hope you enjoy Shinjuku as much as I have, but if Shinjuku is a little too much for you or you want to experience something similar to how Shinjuku was 10-15 years ago, check out Ikebukuro.

Endless Kyabetsu (A Japanese tradition)

Believe it or not, not everyone likes kyabetsu (cabbage). I certainly do, and I appreciate its importance in Japanese cooking.

Japanese people love their cabbage (kyabetsu). It’s a staple in Japanese cuisine. You’ll find it in okonomiyaki, salads, soups, stews, stir fries, cabbage rolls, as a side to tonkatsu, and as part of the “speed-menu” at many izakayas. 

It’s these last two examples that interest me because the shredded cabbage that comes with tonkatsu and the sliced pieces of cabbage served at izakayas are often offered as unlimited cabbage servings. 

When you go to a yakitoriya, it can be hard to fill up on small chicken skewers, so it’s customary to get an order of unlimited cabbage, and allow the bulk of that to help fill your belly. I love cabbage, so I think this is a great thing.

Recently, cabbage prices have risen sharply due to poor weather, supply chain issues, and inflation. This has caused issues for restaurants and families that rely on cabbage as an inexpensive, nutritious, and filling staple.

Let’s keep our fingers crossed that cabbage prices stabilize and the tradition of endless cabbage remains. 

Japanese Denim

Japanese denim is famous worldwide for quality, but the amount of brands to choose from is overwhelming.

In this video, James Leung has a nice breakdown which includes a variety of price points. It’s a great place to start.

Watch the next video to see how real shokunin create this legendary denim.

The most clicked link from the previous issue was for how to tip like a local. This is actually one of the most popular posts of all time in the newsletter.

The 2nd most clicked link from the previous issue was for local language tips that are useful for small talk, even more so in a small izakaya.

If you know someone who would enjoy this post, please share.

—And if someone sent you this post, you can subscribe here.

NB: We sometimes use affiliate links.