Rick Steves and the Power of Community

Several years ago I attended a talk by Rick Steves at a travel convention. 

This was a more casual version of him than you see on TV shows. His laid-back charm was infectious, and the travel information he provided was insightful and unique.

I won’t share the more personal stories he told, but I have one amazing travel strategy that Rick Steves used to increase his luck surface area for serendipity, and authentic local experiences.

He wanted to get off the beaten path and had already been going to smaller towns, and chatting with people in cafes, restaurants, and bars. This is a solid thing to do, but he wanted to have even more local experiences, make stronger connections, and get true insider information.

After some thought, he decided to go to church. 

He didn’t go for religious reasons, he went because he knew that churches have communities. In smaller places, those groups are tight, and everyone knows everyone. So, a stranger should instantly stick out like a sore thumb. Of course, he did, and that’s exactly what he wanted.

This translated to a bunch of interest from members of the church. They had to know who he was, why he was there, how long was he staying, did he want to come over for dinner that evening, and to a party the next afternoon.

It worked. His brilliant strategy led to fantastic conversations, natural connections, and once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to do things he never would have been able to experience otherwise.

Grandmothers wanted him over for home-cooked meals so he could taste the true cuisine of the area, other people invited him to parties (I believe he mentioned a Birthday party), and the amount of interest and local information he received was priceless.

His new friends loved his adventurousness and the fact he’d chosen to visit their smaller town and wanted to show him the best parts of it and the best parts of themselves.

You don’t have to go to churches to experience this type of welcome, although you can if that sounds appealing to you.

I give numerous ways to improve your luck surface area regarding interacting with locals, finding out about fun things going on nearby, and getting information that is not in most guidebooks.

By doing the things I mention in that issue, I’ve had people in Japan spontaneously take me on an izakaya crawl, or insist I join them for karaoke, made plans to hang out on other days, been invited to play pick-up basketball, and found out about fantastic restaurants, cafes, bars that aren’t on anyone’s radar but the local people. Heck, I even had someone rent me an apartment in Tokyo after just a few conversations at a local spot. You never know what cool experiences are waiting for you.

Gin Sonic

Last week, I wrote about the Highball cocktail which ended up being an incredibly popular topic. So I wanted to introduce another Japanese cocktail. A modification of the classic Gin ’n Tonic, the Gin Sonic originated in Tokyo.

“Until the mid-1990s, quinine was banned in the country, and the available tonic water, made without the signature bittering agent, was sweeter, making drinks fall out of balance. By cutting the tonic portion of the two-part cocktail with soda water, Japanese bartenders made an extra-refreshing variation that allows more of the gin’s characteristics to shine through. Though tonics made with quinine are now available in Japan, the Gin Sonic, as it’s become known, persists to this day.” —Punch Magazine 

It can also be made as a Vodka Sonic, but in my opinion, the Gin Sonic is more interesting as you can really taste the gin's flavors. Vodka tends to blend into cocktails as it has a subtler flavor than gin.

Because the Gin Sonic is both less sweet and less bitter compared to a standard Gin ‘n Tonic, it pairs well with food. You don’t have to fly to Japan to try this, the recipe below should have you sorted.

For a balanced Gin Sonic, follow these steps:

Fill a highball glass with ice.

Pour 2 oz (60 ml) of high-quality gin over the ice.

Add 2 oz (60 ml) of soda water.

Add 2 oz (60 ml) of tonic water.

Stir gently.

Garnish with a lime (or yuzu if you have it).

For a lighter recipe with a higher amount of soda water and less gin, try this.

Koenji

Situated a few stops west of Shinjuku via the JR Chuo Line, Koenji is no longer a total secret (you’ll see numerous vintage clothing hunters). But unlike Shimokitazawa (also famous for its antique and vintage shops) which sometimes feels like there are more tourists than residents, Koenji is still off most people’s radar. 

Known for its underground music scene, outstanding vintage clothing shops, and numerous small izakayas and cafes, Koenji offers a truly local experience. It has an edgier, more mature feel than the hipster, bohemian vibes of Shimokitazawa, but if you like one, you are likely to dig the other.

You could easily spend a day or two here without running out of new shops to explore. The vintage clothing options are borderline overwhelming. There are plenty of great coffee shops: Porta Coffee Stand, Coffee Amp the Roaster, INCredible Coffee are just a few, and these weren’t even on my list of Tokyo coffee shops from last week. There is just so much great coffee in Tokyo, and the food options in Koenji are extensive and generally affordable as well.

If you enjoy small boutiques, old-school izakayas, and live music houses, Koenji will not disappoint. Its retro charm is a welcome respite from the crowds of Shinjuku, Shibuya, Roppongi, and the other larger, more famous neighborhoods.

In the evening, I would especially recommend wandering around and eating in the Gado-shita area under the train tracks right by the station. The lively atmosphere of locals eating and drinking in the small izakayas here is enticing. 

Here are a few other great Koenji spots to check out:

Tensuke for egg tempura lunch.

Da pai dang 105 for unique xiao long bao (soup dumplings).

Whistler for its massive selection of vintage clothing and shoes.

Yakitori Taisho is an institution in Koenji. With three locations near the station, this inexpensive yakitoriya is loud, friendly, and full of locals. I usually order my yakitori with shio (salt), but Taisho is known for its tare (sauce), so that’s how I’d recommend it here.

Gyoza Dokoro Tachibana in the Gado Shita. You get a free order of gyoza with every beer you order. It’s dangerous and popular. They have a whole system for ordering to make sure you receive your free gyoza. It’s explained on the menu (don’t worry, it’s easy). There is an English menu as well.

Sushizanmai has a location near the station.

Also, Koenji is an outstanding location for street photography.