Nakano

Nakano is a small town on the West side of Tokyo, just a few stops from Shinjuku via the Chuo line. It’s primarily known for the famous Nakano Broadway Mall and the Nakano Sun Mall covered shopping street. While these are both worthy attractions, I’d argue that Nakano is even better at night when you can explore the side streets punctuated by illuminated red lanterns and enjoy all the lively izakayas. 

These alleyways filled with small bars, cafes, restaurants, and shops give off a Showa-era vibe. Retro signs, small spaces, and boisterous locals having fun. It’s a nighttime street photographer’s ideal spot for a photo walk.

It’s these slightly out-of-the-way parts of Tokyo I’m most drawn to. When I write about going places where tourists are less likely to be, this is where I’m talking about. Nakano is where you find locals doing their thing who will be curious about why you chose this decidedly un-touristy (other than the Nakano malls mentioned above) area to hang out in.

If you start your Tokyo adventure here instead of Golden Gai or Nonbei Yokocho, you’ll have a much better chance of getting great insider tips on where you should eat and drink while exploring Tokyo. This is the kind of information you won’t find in most guidebooks.

Just be prepared, you may encounter small places that don’t have English menus or even people who speak English fluently. You’ll have to use a combination of whatever Japanese you’ve got, miming, and a translation app. If you choose this adventure, you’ll find some incredible places to eat.

Other areas with fewer foreign tourists, where locals are more likely to be interested in chatting with foreigners, include Koenji, Kichijoji (try Harmonica Yokocho at night), and Kanda. There are many more, but I’m just highlighting a few. 

My strategy is to walk around until I find a small izakaya, preferably one serving yakitori, where it looks like the people inside are having fun and just go for it. If it’s not the right spot, it’s easy to leave and try another place. In Japan, it’s customary to visit multiple small joints in one evening. This type of pub crawl, similar to how Spaniards do tapas at multiple wine bars, is called Hashigo Zake in Japanese.

Agedashi Dofu

Agedashi dofu is deep-fried tofu in a savory broth. It’s a popular appetizer, and it’s delicious. I first tried it at my friend’s izakaya. I’m not really a tofu person, but he specializes in tofu, so I knew I would be trying some tofu dishes that evening. And I did. A few different kinds, with agedashi dofu being my favorite (Mapo tofu is also excellent). 

I didn’t just not dislike it, I thought it was fantastic. Agedashi dofu has a nice crisp outside with a soft, smooth inside. The sauce it comes with adds savory, mildly sweet, umami flavors. Sometimes, there are even bonito flakes (dried tuna shavings). I had no idea people could make tofu so tasty. Yes, my bad. I know better now.

Many izkayas serve this dish. It’s a great way to start your meal and pairs well with a cold beer.

Tabelog Hyakumeiten/Top 100 Restaurants

I’ve talked about tabelog.com before. If you want to use an app to find restaurants, it’s one of the best choices in Japan.

A feature I forgot to mention is their annual Hyakumeiten or “Top 100 Restaurants” ranking. This is a convenient way to check out a whole bunch of excellent restaurants.

The top 100 are chosen from approximately 870,000+ restaurants.

The restaurants on the Hyakumeiten are selected based on reviews and feedback from normal diners, not professional food critics. 

Many categories are included: sushi, izakaya, ramen, yakiniku, tempura, yakitori, etc. You can search by area or category, and you can even make an online reservation in English. If you’ve previously tried making reservations at Japanese restaurants on your own, you’ll know how notoriously difficult it can be even if you speak decent Japanese. This makes the reservations feature very valuable.

Note: If you make a reservation, please make sure to cancel if you realize you won’t be able to make it. Foreigners making reservations at Japanese restaurants and then not showing up has become a big problem in Japan, and it’s not a good look for travelers, so don’t be that person.

The Tabelog Hyakumeiten - Top 100 Restaurants for 2025

There’s also a listing of Tabelog Awards separate from the Hyakumeiten that gives restaurants Gold, Silver, or Bronze distinctions based on user ratings. This list includes 652 restaurants. Check it out here.

Download the “Oishii Map” app, which features the Tabelog top 100 restaurants (iOS only at this time)

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