Mornings in Japan

Unlike shops and restaurants in the States, Japanese businesses often don’t open until 11 AM. That includes many coffee shops as well. If you’re an early bird, you may have to plan accordingly.

Fortunately, there are some things best done early. Your hotel breakfast service will generally start at 7 AM (Japanese people are prompt, so if you want the best selection, go early). If you’re staying at one of the nicer hotels, the breakfasts will be epic, with Western and Eastern selections. Temples and museums often open at 9 AM.

If you don’t want a hotel breakfast, a great strategy is to pop into a convenience store (7-11, Lawson, Family Mart, etc.) and grab breakfast from there. Either get it the night before, so you can eat in your room without having to leave to get food in the morning, or, if you like to get out first thing, swing by the konbini before your morning excursion. A couple of cans of Boss Coffee, a few onigiri, and a piece of fruit make a nice meal.

You can always take these to a local park —Inokashira Park in Kichijoji, Yoyogi Park in Shibuya, Ueno Park in Ueno, etc., and have a little picnic on a bench. You will often find musicians playing or practicing at the park because Japanese apartments are small and they don’t want to disturb their neighbors. So, you can stumble across a nice performance. I recently enjoyed a gentleman playing classical guitar music in Inokashira Park in the morning while ducks swam in the lake and couples strolled around waiting for shops to open. It was a great start to the day.

Some restaurants are open either 24 hours or open early. For example Yoshinoya (Many are 24 hrs. Some open at 5 AM and close at 2 AM. It’s much better in Japan than the USA version), Ichiran Ramen (Numerous 24hr locations, while some open at 9 or 10 AM), and Sushi Zanmai (the Tsukiji and Roppongi branches are open 24hrs. All others open at 11 AM). Who says sushi, a beef bowl, a salmon bowl, or ramen aren’t good for breakfast? I’ll take one of those any day. Sushi for breakfast is a fantastic, refreshing way to get going.

If you want coffee and a snack, Fuglen Coffee (a fantastic shop from Norway) has numerous locations in Tokyo that open early (7 AM). They also have a shop in Kawasaki, Kanagawa (Opens at 9 AM) and one in Fukuoka (Opens at 8 AM). I also love to stop by About Life Coffee in the Dogenzaka area of Shibuya (Open 8:30 on weekdays and 9 on weekends). About Life also has locations in Nakameguro, Jiyugaoka, Shibuya (2nd store), and other areas.

Also, many Japanese businesses have art painted on their gates so a morning stroll through Shimokitazawa for example becomes an art walk adventure.

If you are in Kyoto and plan to walk the Philosopher’s Walk…

Visit the Blue Bottle Coffee near Nanzenji Temple at one end of the Philosopher’s Walk. It’s considered the most beautiful Blue Bottle location. It is a very peaceful, zen location. 

Nara (Big Buddha and Bowing Deer)

Nara is a day trip that’s definitely worth taking. It’s within easy train distance from Kyoto (35-45 min.) and Osaka (30-45 min.). There’s a real thrill to feeding the deer crackers and watching them bow to you to get more. Bow to the deer, they will bow in return, and then you give them the cracker.

That’s how it’s supposed to go ideally. However, the deer have become more assertive/aggressive in the past several years. They may nip at you or chase you around and some of the younger deer appear less interested in the bowing tradition so you may need to bow to a few of them to get the expected response. 

In my opinion, it’s still worth it. These creatures are so cute. They’re everywhere around the Big Buddha area and the surrounding areas, as are little stands where you can easily buy crackers to feed them.

The Big Buddha (Daibutsu) is awe-inspiring. Seated in Todai-ji (Great Eastern Temple), at just over 49 ft. tall, you will feel Daibutsu’s presence. The building the buddha sits in is enormous as well. You may feel small and contemplative after visiting the buddha in this temple.

Japanese Food Courts

Unlike most Western malls, where the food at the food court barely passes for food, Japanese malls, train stations, and office buildings have food floors that contain locations of some of the best restaurants in town (including internationally known restaurants). Even the legendary Sukiyabahi Jiro of “Jiro Dreams of Sushi” fame is located inside Ginza Subway Station (at exit C6 if you’re curious). Good luck getting a reservation.

World-famous dumpling shop Din Tai Fung has various locations in Takashimaya Department Stores in Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Chiba, Nagoya, and other department stores throughout Japan. (It’s not necessarily my favorite restaurant, but an example of the quality and name recognition you will find in Japan’s mall food floors).

If you like Din Tai Fung, you will love that it’s more affordable in Japan than in the US (if that’s where you’re coming from). As of 5/8/’24, 12 kurobuta pork xiao long bao (the soup dumplings they’re famous for) in Tokyo will cost 2,040 yen ($13.10 all in. No tax or tip) while an order of 10 kurobuta pork xiao long bao at the Glendale, CA branch will cost $15.50 before tax and tip (around $20 total including the 10.25% sales tax and an 18% tip). That’s almost 35% less money in Japan, so knock yourself out and go dumpling crazy.

Tokyo Station has an underground Ramen street (take the Yaesu South exit from the JR lines to find this easily). You’ll find eight famous ramen shops including vegan ramen at Sorairo NIPPON, tsukemen at Rokurinsha, and very rich tonkotsu ramen at Oreshiki Jun. Here’s the official guide to the Ramen street with a list of all the shops. It’s well worth checking out if you’re into ramen.

An office building with an amazing food floor is the Yatai floor in the Chitose Building in Shibuya which I wrote about here. So far, everyone I’ve recommended this place to has loved it. It has a festive atmosphere with tons of food options and friendly locals.

But seriously, you don’t need to seek out any particular location. Go to the restaurant floor at any of the malls, many train stations, and even office buildings and explore. There will be numerous quality restaurants. Japanese, Indian, Burgers, Chinese, Thai, French, Italian, and other cuisines will be available. This is also especially useful if you get tired and hangry in the middle of shopping and need to refuel.