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Mermaid Coffee • Gyoza • Japanese Hobbies

Japan or Die - Issue #46

Mermaid Coffee in Ikebukuro, Tokyo

Cafe Latte and a scone at Mermaid Coffee

Mermaid Coffee in Ikebukuro has everything you could want from a great coffee shop. Delicious coffee from beans roasted in-house. A wide selection of pour-over coffee choices, which you can sample before you buy.

Table full of coffee samples

The cozy downstairs lounge area

Tons of seating. Free WIFI. Tasty snacks (cookies and scones). Some of the friendliest service I’ve experienced in Japan (that’s saying something). A convenient location in Ikebukuro (and another one in Meidaimae in case that’s better for you). Great mugs available for purchase if they are not sold out which they usually are. Keep an eye on their Instagram page to see when they release a new batch for sale.

Planning the day’s adventure with a latte and a scone

Beautiful interiors with a cozy, throwback Americana vibe. Excellent music that’s not played too loud (Stevie Wonder, Otis Redding, Motown classics). Mermaid Coffee could easily become your first stop every morning if your hotel is nearby.

Another day, another scone, and coffee of course

Also, unlike most Japanese coffee shops, especially boutique ones, which tend to open at 11 a.m., Mermaid Coffee opens at 9 a.m. and stays open late (10 p.m.) if you want a coffee before going out at night.

To see more photos click here 

Gyoza

Gyoza Dokoro Tachibana (Koenji in the Gado Shita)

Gyoza is a food group if you want it to be. You may be used to thinking of gyoza as an appetizer or a side dish, but in Japan, there are restaurants specializing in gyoza. Places where gyoza gets the spotlight. It pairs exceptionally well with cold beer.

I’ve heard Japanese people say they don’t eat gyoza during the week because it often has a strong garlic smell, and they don’t want their coworkers to think they have bad breath. Strong smells are frowned upon in Japan. 

While it may hold some truth, I’ve found that when gyoza are present they usually disappear rather quickly regardless of the day of the week. I recently went to a gyoza place on a Tuesday and could barely find a seat.

Massive gyoza at Kailaku

This is all to say, go to a gyoza shop. Here are a few to consider:

Kailaku in Ikebukuro - They have massive gyoza and lines to match. Go early or between popular times. They also have Ramen and other Chinese food dishes.

Gyoza Dokoro Tachibana in the Gado Shita in Koenji —You get a free order of gyoza with every beer you order. It’s dangerous and popular. They have a whole system for ordering to make sure you receive your free gyoza. It’s explained on the menu (don’t worry, it’s easy). There is an English menu as well.

Gyoza no Osho - A Chinese food chain restaurant with over 700 locations that is highly regarded for its gyoza. Remember, it’s a chain. Easy to find and tasty, but not as good as many Mom ‘n Pop gyoza stands.

Senmonten - This hole-in-the-wall in Gion, Kyoto is a legendary gyoza shop. Like a true senmonten, they only sell two items, gyoza, and beer. (I haven’t been to this one, but I keep hearing good things and can’t wait to go).

But seriously, you don’t need to make a specific trip to these places, you can simply search gyoza (in Japanese) plus the location you are in, and you’ll find plenty of convenient gyoza places.

Japanese Hobbies

I wrote previously about embracing your hobbies when traveling to Japan. If you’re curious, you can read it here.

This time I’m writing about hobbies from a different perspective.

In Japan, it’s quite common to be asked “趣味は何ですか (Shumi wa nan desu ka?) What is your hobby?” While you should be able to answer that without too much trouble, the fun part is when Japanese people start telling you what their hobbies are.

What qualifies as a hobby in Japan? First off, all the usual things like playing an instrument, collecting anything collectible, playing a sport, martial arts, hiking, reading, origami, ceramics, cooking, making the perfect espresso, watching TV, etc.

However, more interestingly, in Japan, you will hear people say in all earnestness that their hobby is eating, or sleeping, or drinking, or driving.

Osaka, often called “Japan’s Kitchen”, is known for its delicious food. Osakans are famous for being obsessed with eating well and spending a disproportionate amount of their income on food. They even have a saying “食い倒れ/くいだおれ (Kuidaore) Eat until you go bankrupt”.

I mention this for two reasons. One, if you love food, go to Osaka. Two, when you are in Osaka you are quite likely to hear someone tell you their hobby is eating.

It never gets old hearing people tell you their hobby is eating. It’s just hard to argue with that. I mean, who doesn’t love eating?