In Praise of Shadows

Happy New Year! After a few weeks off, it’s time to jump back into all things Japan. I just finished reading a Japanese book I hadn’t read in ten years. It inspired me to take a fresh look at my surroundings and see how I can incorporate shadows as an intentional design element.

Published in 1933, In Praise of Shadows by Jun'ichirō Tanizaki (a popular Japanese novelist) is a captivating exploration of the interplay between light and shadow and how that relationship guides Japanese concepts of beauty.

Dictated by the limits and needs of daily life, finding beauty in shadows became a necessity, and informed the direction of Japanese design. Tanizaki delves deep into traditional Japanese aesthetics, highlighting the Eastern approach of cherishing imperfections, appreciating the signs of age and repeated use, and the power of dimly lit spaces.

He explains how various levels of light are used to create settings that evoke specific moods such as the elegance of a spare, dimly lit space or the mystery of a piece of artwork shrouded in gentle shadow. These types of lighting, which allow for ambiguity, subtlety, and interpretation, add a mystique to otherwise simple spaces with few decorations.

“We have all had the experience, on a visit to one of the great temples of Kyoto or Nara, of being shown a scroll, one of the temple’s treasures, hanging in a large, deeply recessed alcove. So dark are these alcoves, even in bright daylight, that we can hardly discern the outlines of the work; all we can do is listen to the explanation of the guide, follow as best we can the all-but-invisible brush strokes, and tell ourselves how magnificent a painting it must be. Yet the combination of that blurred old painting and the dark alcove is one of absolute harmony. The lack of clarity, far from disturbing us, seems rather to suit the painting perfectly.”

—Jun'ichirō Tanizaki

After reading In Praise of Shadows, you will have a deeper understanding of Japanese culture, a nuanced view of creating pleasing designs through light and shadow, and an idea of the challenges of implementing traditional Japanese aesthetics in the modern world. 

This book is a quick read at only 48 pages (including the afterword).

Konbini Clothes

In Japan, convenience stores sell clothes. Maybe you already know this and have been doing all your clothes shopping at convenience stores in Japan for years. Those who are new to this concept may be surprised to learn that in addition to having their own clothing lines, Japanese convenience stores have started collaborating with famous brands. Lawson for example has been selling MUJI brand clothing since 2022.

You’ll find a wide variety of clothing, including T-shirts, socks, underwear, ties, dress shirts, shorts, camisoles, undershirts, hand towels, sweatshirts, sweatpants, and other items like seasonal clothes and limited-edition collaborations.

Konbini clothes are a lifesaver if you run out of clean clothes and don’t have time to do laundry, and they also make fun souvenirs. Warning, be mindful of sizes, Japanese clothes tend to run small.

Japanese convenience stores have sold clothes for decades, but previously the quality wasn’t the greatest and people only bought them as a last resort. Now, convenience stores have improved both the quality and the range of their goods. Family Mart’s Convenience Wear line is quite popular, even being featured in Highsnobiety.

Teishoku

I’m sure you’re ready to eat your weight in ramen and sushi, but I hope you’ll also try Teishoku (if you haven’t already).

Teishoku is a classic Japanese set meal based on the Ichiju-issai (one soup, one side) traditional meals offered at Zen temples. It consists of a main dish, miso soup, tsukemono (pickled vegetables), rice, and fukusai (small side dishes). 

Served in one course, with the small plates arranged aesthetically on a tray, these set meals frequently come with Japanese tea and rice refills.

Named after the main dish, Teishoku has a wide variety of offerings. There is something for everyone.

Yakizakana - Grilled fish. Salmon, horse mackerel, mackerel (saba), and sanma are some of the fish you will often see.

Tempura - Featuring a light, crispy batter and focusing on delicate flavors of seafood, fish, and vegetables, tempura is a great choice for teishoku.

Fried, breaded meats, seafood, and fish - Unlike tempura which has a light breading, these are heavier, heartier offerings covered in Panko breadcrumbs and fried until golden brown. Some options include tonkatsu (breaded fried pork cutlet), ebi furai (thickly battered deep-fried shrimp), karaage (Japanese fried chicken pieces—so incredibly good!), and aji furai (battered and deep-fried horse mackerel) among other things.

Sashimi - When all you want is a nice serving of fresh, raw fish.

Buta no kakuni - braised, simmered pork belly. One of my all-time favorites but can be harder to find.

Sautéed meats - Shogayaki consists of thinly sliced pork, sautéed with onions in a soy and ginger sauce.

Hamburg steak - A ground meat patty (usually a blend of beef and pork, but sometimes only beef). This is a popular dish that combines Western and Japanese influences. The patty will often also have onions, bread crumbs, egg, and salt and pepper, so the flavor and texture are not exactly like an American-style burger. It is often served in a rich, tangy sauce or a demi-glace sauce.

The above are only some examples of the main dishes offered in teishoku. To find teishoku restaurants you can search online for teishokuya (定食 屋/set meal restaurant) or be aware that many restaurants you already are going to offer teishoku meals as a way of ordering in addition to a la carte options.

A few good places:

Butagumi in Nishiazabu (Tokyo) - Located in a quiet neighborhood and requiring a stroll down fairly nondescript streets, Butagumi is famous for having some of the best tonkatsu (breaded, fried pork) in Tokyo. This spot lives up to the hype. 

For an incredible deal, go for lunch. The teishoku set includes perfectly fried, crunchy-but-not-greasy tonkatsu, steamed rice, freshly shredded raw cabbage, miso soup, and pickles. The rice and cabbage come with free refills. 

A unique aspect of this restaurant is the wide variety of offerings. Up to 50 different breeds of pork (domestic and international) are available. 

Also, there is an English menu here. The daily special is a good choice, but if you’re feeling frisky you can always splurge on one of the premium options. 

If you can’t make it to the super-charming original location, they have another branch in Roppongi Hills. While the atmosphere is more modern, the food is still top-notch.

Shinpachi Shokudo Shinjuku (Tokyo) - About a 3-minute walk from the West Exit of Shinjuku Station, this restaurant is a great place to eat a fish set meal (I prefer the salmon) at a very affordable price (1,000-2,000 yen/$7-$14 USD). Don’t worry if you don’t like fish, they also have grilled ginger chicken or pork, fried eggs with pork belly, and grilled beef. You order from the electronic tablet which has an English option. 

This place opens early, at 7 am, so it’s a great option for a Japanese breakfast. It’s a fast-casual food option that delivers for the price. 

Teishoku Sato in Shibuya (Tokyo)- With teishoku in the name, you’d hope they’d be good at it and, of course, they are. This is Japan after all. This is a popular restaurant in Shibuya. The top main dishes are grilled salmon, and fried chicken with salt. I’m partial to the fried chicken. Perhaps not the healthiest choice, but crispy, juicy fried chicken hits the spot.

This restaurant is only a few minutes walk from Shinsen Station which is a stop on the Keio Inokashira Line (the line from Shibuya to Shimokitazawa and Kichijoji. Both neighborhoods I highly recommend visiting.) It’s about 10 minutes from Shibuya Station itself. Either way, fairly convenient. Cash Only. I don’t think they have an English menu, so bring your translation app or just be brave and ask “Osusume wa nan desu ka?” (What is your recommendation?).

Tokiwa Shokudo in Sugamo (Tokyo) - Famous for its aji fry (fried horse mackerel - a popular fish in Japan. See the photo above) and pork shogayaki (ginger pork), this retro-style cafe located in Grandma’s Harajuku is often packed on weekends and festival days (the 4th, 14th, and 24th of the month). Don’t worry it’s easily accessible during the week.

Ootoya - I’m adding this last one for people who are curious about teishoku, but also want convenience. This is a chain restaurant focusing on teishoku. There are around 200 locations all over Japan, so you can easily experience a teishoku meal. It’s not the same level as the above places, but it is a fun place, and the prices are very reasonable.

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