Ikebukuro

Ikebukuro is a popular commercial, entertainment, and shopping district in Tokyo. 

If you find Shinjuku and Shibuya overwhelming but still want a good amount of shopping and entertainment options, Ikebukuro is a great choice. 

It is by no means a small and sleepy part of Tokyo, with the third busiest train station after Shinjuku and Shibuya, the famous Sunshine City Mall (and several more malls), and more restaurants than you could try in a lifetime.

Ikebukuro feels like Shinjuku’s younger sibling, with a dash of Akihabara thrown in for good measure. It has the same rough-around-the-edges but still safe quality I love about Shinjuku without the presence of every human person on the planet. It’s almost like going back in time. You can experience something similar to what Shinjuku was like about 10-15 years ago.

Most of the major shops and malls have locations here (with some even having their main store in Ikebukuro), so you can buy anything your heart desires. Muji, Don Kihotei, Junkudo, Book Off, Uniqlo, GU, Tower Records, mont•bell, Loft, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Chanel, Bic Camera, and many more. And if you’re looking for shoes, Red Wings has incredible customer service and some larger-sized shoes (I wear a 13 and they had them). It also has areas filled with shops catering to Otaku (with a stronger focus on female otaku’s interests).

The Sunshine City Mall complex is almost a city unto itself. It includes a bevy of things to do, places to eat, and stores like Sesame Street Market, Pokemon Center MEGA TOKYO, the world’s biggest gachapon center, an Aquarium, Namjatown, and many (around 100) restaurants. The Sunshine 60 Observation deck has one of the best views of Tokyo.

Another great thing about Ikebukuro is that the price tag is lower than in Shinjuku or Shibuya. Also, it’s on the Yamanote line, only a few stops from Shinjuku, so you can get your Shinjuku fix without staying there.

One of my favorite coffee shops, Mermaid Coffee, has an incredible location here with the friendliest staff and a comfy, welcoming vibe.

An important thing to note about Ikebukuro is that it has a bit of a split personality in terms of the West and East sides of the station. 

I would recommend staying on the East side. The East side has most of the shopping, tons of restaurants, and the Sunshine City Mall complex. There are plenty of reasonably priced (for Tokyo) hotels here, and tons of convenient things to do day and night.

The West side contains Tokyo’s second biggest red-light district (Kabukicho is #1). Most of this district is on the West side of the station and doesn’t truly get going until after dark. That means the West side is a bit less bustling and quieter in the daytime and probably not the best place for families at night.

You can still walk around the West side at night, just like people do in the Kabukicho area of Shinjuku, but be aware of your surroundings and don’t engage with or follow the street touts trying to get you to go to certain bars and clubs.

If you like Shinjuku’s general vibe but find it a bit much or want a similar experience with a lower price tag, Ikebukuro is a great option.

Things to check out in addition to what I already mentioned above:

Racines Farm to Park - Good food with nice space indoors and outdoors. Next to a small park/grassy area.

Old Donuts - Known for their cream-filled donuts. I wrote an entire piece about them.

Kailaku - Makes the biggest gyoza I’ve ever seen and is very popular for ramen spot as well.

Blue Bottle Coffee - The famous SF coffee maker has numerous outposts in Japan, including in Ikebukuro. This is one of the less busy locations, unlike the one in Shinjuku, which is consistently packed. This location is small and has a nice cozy feeling.

Mutekiya - Rich tonkotsu (pork bone) ramen with garlic toppings. Has English menus. Be prepared to queue. It’s very popular.

Torinoana - Famous chicken ramen. Choose between Shirotori Ramen (a mild, salty-sweet broth) and Akadori (a spicy version with red chili oil). Both are good. It’s popular, expect lines.

Coin Lockers

Located at airports, train stations (even smaller ones), malls, department stores, and some tourist attractions, coin lockers are incredibly convenient. 

The cost is based on size, which varies from handbag size to carry-on baggage size to large suitcase size. They are quite affordable, with smaller ones around 300 yen and larger ones around 600-800 yen.

While still referred to as coin lockers, some newer ones have touchscreens in multiple languages that accept Suica, Pasmo, and sometimes even mobile payment apps.

Coin lockers come in handy when you have suitcases or lots of shopping bags and want to explore more without lugging everything around. Also, many Japanese stores, especially vintage and antique ones, tend to have extremely narrow aisles. Maneuvering around people is challenging enough, but with a bag, it can turn the hunt for cool stuff into a very cumbersome ordeal. Take advantage of the coin lockers when you can and free yourself to shop with ease.

Natto

“Can you eat natto?” Said the older Japanese gentleman, with a slight grin. We were just getting acquainted over a few drinks in the small izakaya. “Aaah, Gomen, natto wa chotto…” I responded. And then he laughed. “Gaijin can’t eat natto” he stated with humor and certitude.

Where do I start? With natto, I suppose. Natto is a traditional Japanese food made with fermented soybeans, and even Japanese people are divided on it. Whether you like it or not, it’s an acquired taste for most. I’ve seen adventurous eaters unable to eat it and squeamish eaters refuse to try. And, contrary to the ojisan’s final statement, there are plenty of gaijin who’ve acquired a taste for natto.

If you are asked, “Can you eat natto?” And your answer is yes, you may get a compliment or a look of respect.

Natto is challenging in a few ways. A description is in order. First, it’s covered in a slimy and sticky film that is stretchy, stringy, and mucus-like, making it not only difficult to eat without making a mess but also not visually appealing. If you can handle the appearance, the next obstacle is the smell. Often compared to stinky cheese, old socks, or even ammonia, natto will fill your nostrils with a powerful aroma. 

Ok, you’re one of the curious, brave ones. Good. The flavor is hard to describe but generally considered milder than the smell would have you expect. Kind of like durian (the fruit that is banned in many hotels due to the odor it emits), there aren’t any perfect comparisons flavor-wise. I haven’t had it in a long time, but friends say it’s like a funky cheese, umami-flavored, kind of bitter with a touch of sweetness.

Natto is often served with soy sauce, mustard, and chopped green onions and frequently put on rice. It’s considered healthy due to the benefits of fermented foods.

Back to the izakaya conversation. Japanese people are curious about foreigners’ impressions of Japanese food and sometimes like to tease or test visitors with some of Japan’s more unique offerings. Similar to when an Aussie insists you have some Vegemite on toast. 

No one will expect you to eat natto, they know it is divisive. The “Can you eat natto?” question is also asked about other Japanese foods like sushi and Shirako. Don’t be too surprised if someone orders a dish for you at an izakaya or small eatery if you tell them you’ve never tried it before. I’ve had everything from sea snails to unusual bowls of ramen bought for me. It usually results in tasting something new, different, and delicious. There have been a few misses, though. It’s part of being adventurous.