Grandma’s Harajuku

If you’ve been to Tokyo, you’ve probably been to Harajuku or at least heard of it, but there’s another part of Tokyo called Sugamo that’s nicknamed “Grandma’s Harajuku.” Fortunately, (or unfortunately) “Grandma’s Harajuku” doesn’t have grandmas wearing blue contacts, decked out in goth-Lolita outfits eating rainbow-colored crepes from vending machines. It does, however, have a throwback appeal. Known for being popular with the older crowd, Sugamo is now becoming popular with the younger crowd as well.

Sugamo Jizo Dori Shopping Street has around 200 stores, with many of them focused on clothes, sweets, and goods catering to the senior crowd, thus its nickname. The most famous of these shops is Sugamo no Maruji, the originator of lucky red underwear. In Japan, red is the color for health and energy, so red underwear conveys good luck for your health. I’ve never seen more red clothing in one store.

Sugamo is also the perfect part of town to indulge your sweet tooth.

Try the shiodaifuku, mochi filled with lightly salty red bean paste, from Shogetsudo or Shiodaifuku Mizuno (established in 1937).

It’s difficult to describe the flavor of shiodaifuku. A soft, chewy mochi exterior gives way to the sweet bean flavor gently softened by the salt. They taste very unusual to my Western palate but in a good way. I’m used to hot, spicy, and savory beans, like in Mexican food. The room temperature, sweet, slightly salty beans in shiodaifuku have a pleasing, mind-bending effect. It’s fun to try foods different from what you are accustomed to. These are a treat I love. I don’t care for standard daifuku as I find them too sweet, but shiodaifuku (salt-daifuku) contain enough salt to temper the sweetness.

While other stores sell various confectionaries and candies, those two are the most famous, so be prepared to wait in line. The lines do move fast though.

There are two other shops I recommend. Raijindo, a senbei store, that has a double-dipped soy sauce senbei with a strong, almost tart peppery flavor. Don’t get this flavor if you’re not a big soy sauce fan. To me, senbei taste like a very crunchy, fresh pretzel.

Sennari Monaka, the pancake shop on the way to Jizo Dori from JR Sugamo Station. It’s on the same side of the street as Jizo Dori just about a block or two away. You will smell the fresh pancakes as you approach. The dorayaki pancake with anko bean paste, butter, and a bit of salt and pepper sprinkled on it is my choice here. You don’t have to put salt or pepper on it if you don’t want.

Unlike Harajuku, Grandma’s Harajuku is a quiet, subdued affair but if you are interested in trying traditional Japanese sweets, it’s a place to be. I recommend going on the 4th, 14th, or 24th of the month when there’s a popular fair with outdoor street stalls. Jizo Dori is livelier on those days.

Liquors Hasegawa

Japan is famous for its whisky, and bringing home a bottle from a Japanese distillery is an incredible gift for a friend or even yourself. But there are so many options it can be overwhelming to choose which one to get, especially if you're just guessing.

Liquors Hasegawa is practically an institution. It’s unique in allowing customers to taste up to 3 different liquors (you will not be allowed to sample their wares if you’ve already been drinking). For 150-250 yen ($1.00-$1.67) you receive a 10 ml sample. It’s not a lot, but it’s enough to help you choose which bottle to bring back as a souvenir or a gift.

You don’t have to stick with Japanese whisky either. Liquors Hasegawa has a strong single-malt whisky selection, many Japanese whisky bottles, numerous Japanese gins, a shockingly good amount of mezcal (I did not realize mezcal was this popular in Japan), rum, sake, wine, beer, and other liquors and liqueurs. The whisky prices are very good compared to the US, but the mezcal prices are high. Not all bottles are available for sampling, but many are.

There are other branches, but the paid tastings are only available at the Tokyo Station store. 

Here’s their website.

Tsutaya Lounges

Tsutaya Lounges are paid lounges in various Tsutaya Bookstores all over Japan. Here’s a list of all their locations. I like the Shimokitazawa one because it’s less busy than the Daikanyama T-site location and others, but they each have their own vibe and some differing amenities. T-Site is ridiculously fantastic, so don’t skip it because the lounge is more crowded. It’s an epic bookstore and beautiful architecturally.

Whether you’re a digital nomad, a traveling businessperson, or someone who needs to respond to emails, the Tsutaya Lounges are peaceful spots to get some work done. Unlike regular coffee shops, where space is often limited and you can’t just camp all day, no one will bother you at the Tsutaya Lounges.

They provide reliable WIFI, plentiful workstations with outlets, comfortable seating, free drinks (including coffee, sodas, juices, and water), and free snacks (including soft-serve ice cream, mini-croissants, and a large array of nuts, crackers, and crunchy treats).

Tsutaya has day rates, hourly rates, monthly rates, and even corporate rates. You pay as you leave, so you can extend your time if needed. If you stay for an hour and have a coffee or two, a soda, and a small snack, you’re breaking even just from the drinks and snacks. Getting the day pass lets you go in and out so you can leave the lounge to grab a proper meal, stretch your legs, and then return to do more work. Prices vary by individual location. You can find their rates here.

I also find these lounges great places to take a break from the crowds and frenzy of Tokyo and rest a bit. They have tons of books, magazines, manga, and some even have an aroma bar.

The aroma bar has three scents which you can smell and choose from. Once you make your decision, put a drop of the one you like on a piece of perfume paper, place it in the cedar block that’s provided, and take it to your table.

The lounges are not very busy in the morning on weekdays but do fill up as the day goes on. The lounges also have alcohol, but that costs extra. I highly recommend bringing noise-cancelling headphones as the music can be hit or miss, and occasionally someone thinks the lounge is their living room and starts talking on the phone or making video calls. So, yeah, noise-cancelling headphones are a must if you want to focus. Otherwise, these lounges are great work-focused places to get things done.