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David Lynch • Nekojita • Youshoku
Japan or Die - Issue #51
David Lynch
“I don't know why people expect art to make sense. They accept the fact that life doesn't make sense.”
―David Lynch
Japanese Ad for Cherries
As I sit reflecting on David Lynch and his career, I can’t help but appreciate his unique style and uncanny ability to expose the human condition while defying all expectations. A visionary auteur whose work includes some of my favorites: The Elephant Man, Mulholland Dr., Blue Velvet, Twin Peaks, and even Chris Isaak’s “Wicked Game” video, David Lynch was fearless and, perhaps more importantly, curious about the world around him. His visual style and dreamlike storytelling captivated audiences from the beginning and continue to do so.
In the 1990s, Twin Peaks’ incredible popularity in Japan became a phenomenon that transcended cultural boundaries. Lynch’s unusual characters, eerie atmosphere, and superb mix of horror and humor drove Japanese fans wild. Japan’s beguiling combination of traditional and hypermodern, particularly in Tokyo made it primed for embracing the surreal world of Twin Peaks.
One of the reasons I love Japan is that its cities and culture are so different from their Western counterparts that they instantaneously engage the mind. Japan's very nature challenges me to question my previous assumptions about food, architecture, city design, cleanliness, art, communication, shared spaces, and more. It feels like an adventure before I’ve even begun exploring.
Like David Lynch, Japan is undeniably unique. You’ll discover things you’ve never imagined and experience the world through a new lens.
“I have no idea where this will lead us, but I have a definite feeling it will be a place both wonderful and strange.”
―Dale Cooper, Twin Peaks
Nekojita (Cat Tongue)
Moka
In Japan, food is often served blazing hot—ramen, coffee, etc. This is problematic for me as extra-hot food burns my tongue and ruins my food for several days.
I have what’s commonly called “nekojita” or “cat tongue” –which means you have a sensitive tongue and can’t eat or drink things that are too hot.
If you have trouble consuming super-hot food and drinks, just tell Japanese people that you have “nekojita”, and they will instantly understand your predicament. They may also be impressed that you know this expression even if you barely speak Japanese.
Youshoku/Western-style food
Tonkatsu
Youshoku means “Western food” in Japanese, but a more accurate definition would be Western-inspired food. Japanese chefs have taken a select group of Western dishes, modifying and adapting them with Japanese ingredients, Japanese cooking styles, and Japanese palates in mind to create a unique category of cuisine specific to Japan.
You’ve probably had, or at least seen, some of these dishes as many have achieved worldwide recognition and acclaim. Omurice, hamburg steak, Hayashi rice (go to Yokohamaya for an excellent version), rice pilaf, curry rice, Napolitan spaghetti, croquettes (korokke), tonkatsu (breaded, fried pork), and stuffed cabbage rolls are all popular and common examples of youshoku.
Youshoku is comfort food and feels nostalgic for many Japanese people. Hell, I didn’t even grow up eating these dishes and they make me happy and nostalgic. Youshoku definitely qualifies as Japanese soul food.
Youshoku is everywhere. Just keep your eyes open or do a search for “洋食 + wherever you are staying or wanting to eat” and you’ll have plenty of options.
A few fun places:
Yokohamaya in Azabudai, Tokyo - I wrote about this beautiful, retro cafe a while back. Get the impeccable Hayashi rice (hashed beef with rice), it’s the only dish they make. Don’t forget to have some of their excellent coffee. It’s near Tokyo Tower, so you can pair it with a visit to the tower if that sounds like your thing.
Cafe Friends in Shibuya, Tokyo - This casual, cozy kissa has an extensive menu featuring many of the greatest hits of youshoku cuisine. They are known for having combo plates with two dishes in one. For example, you can get a hamburg steak and Napolitan spaghetti in one dish or a hamburg steak and omurice in one dish. They also have tons of manga you can read if you want (I’m pretty sure it’s all in Japanese though).
Nomura Shoten in Asakusa, Tokyo - A relatively new spot that opened in the Summer of ’22, Nomura Shoten is a popular standing bar (tachinomiya). Designed specifically to encourage social interaction, Nomura Shoten is not truly a youshoku place overall, but it happens to have what some people consider the best Napolitan pasta in Tokyo. In addition to their excellent whisky highballs and gin and tonics, they feature rare spirits hand-selected by the owner. The food and snacks menu is excellent across the board.